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Thread: glass front and sides design?

  1. #1
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    glass front and sides design?

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    in this cabinet, i am having glass front and glass in the sides. one side will be a door. am looking at the possible need for repair of glass panel in frnt or side and how to design this for repair in the future. had thought of making the glass panels as a separate piece inset into the appropiate areas.. also onn the top rail in the front i think for wood strength and grian direction i should run the top rail across the stiles rather than like normal with stiles going to the top..

    any ideaas or suggestions would be appreciated.. thanks for the help
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  2. #2
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    This may seem outta left field, but bear with me. It looks like the from legs angle in from top to bottom. Would it be possible to have the glass set in a groove all around with the top groove deep enough to allow the glass to slide up, then out of the assembly? A more practical option might be to set the glass into a rabbet from the outside, then attach decorative trim all around with antique brass screws.
    Bill Arnold
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  3. #3
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    if i were to have glass sides, i'd go with nothing less than 1/4" safety glass, rabbet on the inside, with quarter round trim all around, pin nailed in for easy removal. that's what i did with the doors on my book case, and the side case doors on the entertainment center. the glass in the doors can be 1/8", to keep the weight down.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Noren View Post
    if i were to have glass sides, i'd go with nothing less than 1/4" safety glass, rabbet on the inside, with quarter round trim all around, pin nailed in for easy removal. that's what i did with the doors on my book case, and the side case doors on the entertainment center. the glass in the doors can be 1/8", to keep the weight down.
    That's how I'd do it, too, Larry. Emphasis on the SAFETY (tempered) glass.
    Jim D.
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  5. #5
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    it will be 1/4" safety glass in the frnt and the lady wants to use her own cut glass side panels.. but i am looking at replacement of the frnt or the sides if they get broke.. i like the idea of a frnt repair like bill said. i am probably over thinking this but to get in there and replace a trim piece would be tough unless you had access from both sides..
    i am thinking of making a inner frame to butt the side doors to, so i can get the rack strength. also in the front the top rail going threw rather than stopping at the stiles wouldnt that be the way to go for less chance of breakage on the curve end?

    if i went with a trim piece on the frnt i could do the same on the side doors as well?
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  6. #6
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    If you run the top rail over the stiles, you are making a design statement. That is not how our eyes have been trained to see things. And frankly, I don't see a strength issue. You have posts for legs. Let the door and sides into the posts and that will solve the racking/strength issue. Cut rabbets in the posts and build the side frames to sit snugly in that recess. Pop them in with bullet catches and they will pop right out, if you know where to push, should the glass need to be replaced. Easy repair. Do the door the same way, but with a little more clearance and hinges on on side. Bob's yer uncle.
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  7. #7
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    in reguards to strength issue,, i am reffering to the scallop section.. if i ran them normal they have only 1" of grain that is running vertical rather horizontal..
    all i have is the 1x4 frnt stiles and only 1x3"s for the back stiles. so all i have is the top and bottom for rack strength, which doesnt give it much..


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    Last edited by larry merlau; 09-11-2014 at 08:41 PM.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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  8. #8
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    I am liking the idea of the top coming off like a table top (figure 8 connectors) and the glass just sliding in and staying put via gravity. Possibly a dab of silicone rubber cement to prevent rattles. Glass gets heavy and safety glass comes thinner. Unframed shower doors come in 3/16" if you want (I pushed for 1/4"). But for a static, non-moving panel, 3/16" safety glass on the front would reduce the weight by 25%. I favor 1/4" but, I'm just sayin' . . .
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I am liking the idea of the top coming off like a table top (figure 8 connectors) and the glass just sliding in and staying put via gravity. Possibly a dab of silicone rubber cement to prevent rattles. Glass gets heavy and safety glass comes thinner. Unframed shower doors come in 3/16" if you want (I pushed for 1/4"). But for a static, non-moving panel, 3/16" safety glass on the front would reduce the weight by 25%. I favor 1/4" but, I'm just sayin' . . .
    hadnt thought of the top coming off glenn,, and i the glass is either 1/8" or 1/4" online which was a neat offer i found by accident.. the glass weight for the frnt and sides in 1/4" is fifty pounds..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  10. #10
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    Re: glass front and sides design?

    Larry as u know we have a hutch with glass all round. Many doors on it.
    Took a few pics to show how they do it in shops.
    They use a plastic/rubber molding that goes in a slot all round. It removes and goes back and keeps glass from rattling.

    Perhaps this moulding is available on open market. Sure makes it a breeze to replace a piece of glass and it does hold in well we have moved this unit a number of times and no breakage.
    Can do more pics if needed.
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    Last edited by Rob Keeble; 09-12-2014 at 11:49 AM.
    cheers

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