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Thread: Auto Width Dado Jig 2.0

  1. #1
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    Auto Width Dado Jig 2.0

    I felt bad about the mean things I have said about my original "beater" dado jig. I only had one last jig planned to make before getting back to other things but, decided to sneak this one in as well. So I give you version 2.0. Like my original version seen here, I use a template guide instead of relying on the outer edge of the router plate. I cut the ledge for the template bushing a bit extra deep so that the router will create a 'zero' edge on the first pass. I also cut a whompin' rabbet to accept the eemerson tools AIO (all in one) clamp. The not-often used DRO on my router table comes in handy for geting the depth right when making multiple stepped passes.

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    Here's the fixed and adjustable fences with the connector plates and clamp setting around. The connector plates get fixed to the fixed fence. The adjustable fence has slots and is fastened in place with carriage bolts and star knobs.

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    I modify a few 1/4" flat head machine screws to fit the odd slots on the AIO clamp. The flats keep the screw from turning in the slot. I slide the screws in and set the jig onto the clamp and fasten it in place with some small round knobs.

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    cont'd . . .
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 09-16-2014 at 04:28 AM.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  2. #2
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    Many of you are familiar with this basic type of dado jig. You clamp a piece of the actual material that you will be using in order to set the jigs width. Slide the adjustable jaw for a snug fit and tighten the star knobs. Now your width is set.

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    You then clamp the jig to the material to be dado'd aligning the now-fixed opening to your setup lines. Now you can route the dado with the template bushing riding the fences making sure you get a perfect fit. Here's a pic with the rig flipped over with the stock clamped in place as well as a couple overall shots from above and below.

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    The adjustable fence will have some non structural material removed to lighten the thing up a bit. There is also an access cutout planned for the clamp handle end to allow clean starts without tearing into the jig by accident. After that it just need a sealer applied and some paste wax on the work surface. The jig will slide onto any of the Contractor Series AIO clamps so I can use shorter or longer clamps as required. I made the jig to make dados from 5/16" through 1-1/2" in width and up to 33" long. I may shorten it up as dados that long are rare in my work. I may also just make a shorter version. Since they don't require a clamp except when in use I am not out the clamp. They could store easily on the shelf arms my planer sled and taper jig store on.
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 09-16-2014 at 04:25 AM.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  3. #3
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    glenn that thin wood will stand up to the daily use with the clamp attached? looks pretty thin but i know you have jig making down pat...
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  4. #4
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    Excellent idea and implementation. Now we talking. I can see this being adapted to a similar jig used for skill saw cutting of large sheets. I am always finding the use of individual clamps end up getting in the way of the tool. Thank you for the idea and well done.
    cheers

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    glenn that thin wood will stand up to the daily use with the clamp attached? looks pretty thin but i know you have jig making down pat...
    Right there with you Larry. I was going to add a lamination similar to 'slips' on a drawer to add thickness. I made a short test piece out of the same BB ply and tried to break it. I did succeed but, only by putting the thin part into a vise and leaning into it. After that experience I decided that the thin part was OK. Believe me, if it fails to provide good service I will post about it ;-)

    I will try to finish off the details after work today and get some shellac on it so I can really put it to the test. I'll post the results. I'm still caught between thinking that for the bulk of shorter dados I will make and the occasional requirement for a longer dado, that this jig is a bit over-sized. To allow me to rest easy, I will leave the "far" end connector plate un-glued till I decide for sure.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Keeble View Post
    I can see this being adapted to a similar jig used for skill saw cutting of large sheets.
    That's brilliant Rob. Why didn't I see that? Oh great, now I've got another jig to add to the list
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  7. #7
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    Here she is with the non-functional material removed to reduce weight.

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    I added the opening in the clamp-handle end connector plate. This lets me get e clean start on the dado.

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    The other end is just assumed to be far enough out that I won't have to go all the way to the small connector plate. You can see by this how much extra I left when I cut the rabbet for the template bushing.

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    With the shellac on and a good wax job, the router really floats through the cut.

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    That's about it for this one.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  8. #8
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    Did you consider adding an adjustable stop?

  9. #9
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    Nice looking jig Glenn. I like Teds idea too, guess that depends on the user and what they use it for most of the time.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  10. #10
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    well, what are the 3 dark colored pieces on your table saw glenn look like drawer frnts..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

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