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Thread: Shop time!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Escondido, CA
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    5,172

    Shop time!

    Well, today I got started rehabbing the old Timberline saw. I got the arbor back a couple of weeks ago, but life intervened. New bears and repaired shaft. Looks and spins sweet! So today, I began cleaning up the parts. The 'box' is aluminum and the outside had some sort of paint on it. Under the corrosion it looked galvanized, or a mottled machine grey. You can see the contrast after I drilled out the pop rivets and removed the name and angle number plates.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I cleaned it all off. It got a Simple Green bath and sanding. I think I want to paint it again. Main reason is I could not get a nice cleaned around the rivets that hold the base ring on or the back strap braces the provide the opening for the motor belt. You can see the rivets near the bottom pf the picture. Painting it would make it look nice and the cost is only one rattle can of something. But what? Do I need a special paint. I was thinking hammered machine grey.

    FWIW, this is not a antique restoration. This is clean it up, make it look nice and then use it! Not all the original parts were there to begin with, so no point trying to go there. And I plan some mods to make it a super slick, multi-featured accurate tablesaw to use building the house. Then, who knows. I don't yet.

    Your thoughts about and for paint?
    ++++++

    Some say the land of milk and honey; others say the land of fruits and nuts. All together my sort of heaven.

    Power is not taken. It is given. Who have you given yours to? Hmmmm?

    Carol Reed

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
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    +1 on the grey Hammerite.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Thomasville, GA
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    +2 on Hammerite. I've had good luck with RustOleum Textured rattle can paint.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
    My Weather Underground station

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Tokyo Japan
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    15,807
    When I paint aluminum I use a special primer first, then the paint, this makes the paint really stick to the aluminum, for me I have found that if I don't do this step, the paint will flake off the aluminium.

    I don't know if regular metal paint that etches into the metal will work with aluminum as well. The paint I get for steel here in Japan does NOT mention anything about aluminum on the label, so I just buy the can of aluminium primer and it has worked well for me so far.

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    The Gorge Area, Oregon
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    Probably more a commentary on my painting skills than anything but my one experience trying to get the hammered paint to look good didn't go extremely well

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    RETIRED(!) in Austintown, Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Mooney View Post
    Probably more a commentary on my painting skills than anything but my one experience trying to get the hammered paint to look good didn't go extremely well
    I haven't tried the Rustoleum, or any other brand, but I've used at least half a dozen cans of the original Hammerite® brand with consistently good results.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim DeLaney View Post
    I haven't tried the Rustoleum, or any other brand, but I've used at least half a dozen cans of the original Hammerite® brand with consistently good results.
    This was with rustoleum. I think I might have been trying to put it on to heavy to fast but it didn't look very good when I was done either way so I ended up sanding it out and just put some low gloss on and called it a day.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Honolulu, Hawaii
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    Carol,

    In my experience in painting aluminum signs, and welding it too, you can't get it TOO clean, but you have to clean it correctly. You said you washed it off with Simple Green? That stuff actually leaves a residue film on the aluminum, contaminating the surface. Perhaps you should have instead used a solution of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) and rinse and dry it well.

    I would further suggest that you wash the areas to be painted with Acetone, and dry it off with a clean cloth. It is best to not allow the acetone dry on the surface as then you have only moved the contaminates around, and not removed them. Try this, I think you will like it.

    Aloha.
    "You got to learn from the mistakes of others. You won't live long enough to make them all yourself". (Author unknown)

    "Time flies like..... an arrow,,,Fruit flies like..... a banana." Groucho Marx

    Ah,,,to live in Paradise!

    Registered voting member

    Fighting for all I am worth, and praying every day.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Oceanside, So. Calif. 5 mi. to the ocean
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Arnold View Post
    +2 on Hammerite. I've had good luck with RustOleum Textured rattle can paint.
    Grey Hammered # 3. I have used the RustOleum rattle can hammered look on several machines. It looks great. If you have not used it before, practice a bit. The way you put it on really affects the look.

    Enjoy,
    JimB
    First of all you have to be smarter than the machine.
    VOTING MEMBER

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
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    (Learning a bit from this...good tips Tony! )
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

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