Drill Press Table Questions

Well even though some of his points are valid and i dont have a dp fence table yet, i cannot agree with him on not having one.
Its all good and well with his dp motor and what he is doing but get something way bigger, put a 2 inch hole saw in it and try cutting 2 inch circles out of 3/4 ply not holding the scrap securely. I ended up using a circle jig and did them on my bandsaw.
Also the run out he is witnessing is in my experience a function of the cheapo small dp and poor chuck quality and drill.
But hey each to their own way as Glenn says. I just prefer to be safe when a cutting edge is involved.

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Unpopular or not, this is just evidence that we all work differently. I did cringe though when I saw him take after that piece of stock while just holding it with his hand :eek:. If my DP decided to go into 'propeller mode', nothing human is going to be able to hold onto the stock. Like most "accidents" these things happen faster than you think.

I have personal experience with how quickly things can go south on a drill press (and the scars to go with), but I still don't clamp a workpiece down unless it's small or I'm using a larger bit (particularly a Forstner).

And Leo, I often use a piece of scrap ply underneath my workpiece even though I have a nice table. ;)
 
Fred, how does the table crank come out to the front?

Carol, check out Shop Notes #135. PM me if you don't have it.

P.s. Fred is right on about the tilt. I love the fact that my table tills forward but, this is built into the DP and not part of my add-on.
 
Fred, how does the table crank come out to the front?

You add a set of bevel gears in the back where the crank used to be. One is fastened to the original stub shaft, the second is fastened to a piece of 1/2" rod that comes to the front of the table. The bevel gears (something from Amazon) are nylon, and held on the shaft and rod by tension pins (I bought a bag of 100 and used 2, if anyone needs some) The crank on the front is the one that used to be on the stub shaft. It was actually quite simple to do following the Shop Notes stuff, and they used the same model of DP I have for their article. Even so, there were some differences:mad::mad:, so if you look at that front mounting block you see a hole on the left side from my first attempt. You also need some bushings to mount into the wooden support blocks that are built. Here's a link to the supplies list. But I passed on buying new handles (they were pretty steep) and reused the original.
 
Another random argument for the split fence. I was knocking out a little tool holder for some long screwdrivers to fit on the side of a wall cabinet and had to drill in close. If the fence did not split, the chuck would not clear. Sure you could do this some other way but, this works well.

DP WP Table (5).jpg . DP WP Table (6).jpg
 
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