best way to clean up lathe bed

allen levine

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new york city burbs
I believe I got rid of my 1220 vs lathe too quickly.
The headstock on the 1642 seemed to be in my way today while I made a pen, I had to turn from opposite side, something Im not used too.
Maybe I should have listened to some of you guys, too late now, Im just stubborn idiot, I really should have kept it for pen turning.

the tool rest on the 1642 is too big for pen turning also, so Ill have to look into a smaller one.

Ive had to buy different adapters because everything I own was threaded for the smaller lathe, even the bottle stopper chuck.
chuck is only 10 bucks, but the adapter was 20.

anyway, after noticing a lot of rust on the bed from turning a wet log and not cleaning up, I tried to clean it up with some pb rust buster stuff, didn't work great, so I used some 420 grit sandpaper with my hand and block and didn't know if that was the smartest way, it got a lot of it off, then I used the pb spray again, cleaned it up nicely, wiped it all down dry.

whats the best way to maintain a smooth, even and clean bed on the lathe?
 
You did good.

I use use 220 grit silicon carbide (wet/dry) and WD40. Then just WD40 and wipe dry. Then a quick cleaning with any solvent around. Then paste wax the dickens out of it. I use MinWax. Available at the grocery or borg. Relatively inexpensive. From clean dry metal, 5-6 very thin wax coats, each buffed out. The wax gets into the cast iron pores and does a nice job of keeping things shiny. Also protects well when doing wet turnings. After turning wet wood, I wipe the thing clean, Simple Green if I have to, and more wax, maybe 2-3 coats. Same drill. I don't do anything when turning dry wood. Also helps the banjo slide smoothly. When it starts to move reluctantly, time for a completely new wax job. Protectant and lube.
 
I do exactly the same as Carol...which reminds me, I need to wax my lathe's bed. :D Allen, get a smaller tool rest and it will help out a bunch when turning smaller things.
 
The best way to clean up the ways (bed) of your lathe is to not let them get rusty in the 1st place!

Lay a towel over the bed if you are using water or CA or the like. 3M has some pads that I would consider using for the clean-up. (can't think of their name at present). Then a waterproof spray protector. Check out LV, that's where my stuff comes from.
 
Allen, If that rust gets very bad, you can shave it off, using a single edge razor blade in an appropriate holder, at a low angle. Just take it easy on the surface so you don't catch on it. This method even works well for table saw tops and jointer tables. Follow this as Mack stated with some green Scotchbrite pads and WD-40. Then wipe the surface down well, and as Carol said, give it a few coats of wax. Paste wax. Many of us use Johnson's (the yellow can). Apply it, let it flash off (solvents evaporate) and buff it off with an old cotton cloth. (Tee shirts work well.) Do this periodically and you will be happy with no more rust.

Try it, you'll like it.
 
Steel wool...if it's really bad...800 on a RO sander. After the steel wool, Johnson's Paste Wax. If you can't find it...I'll send you some.
 
For me, if steel wool or a coarse synthetic pad won't remove it, I do as Carol does and break out the 220 grit sandpaper. After that and a thorough cleaning with a solvent du jour, I apply a coat or two of paste wax -- each buffed out with a clean cloth or paper towel -- and call it good. And I always apply the paste wax on all my waxed tool surfaces with a small piece of gray Scotch Brite pad, whether there's rust or not. I figure it helps keep the grime build-up to a minimum.

And now you see why most of us have multiple tool rests. :D Robust makes some of the best, IMO:

http://www.turnrobust.com/Robust_Tool_Rests.html
 
Ive been using butchers bowling alley wax on my jointer, planer and tablesaw surface for a few years, Ill clean the bed up more and put on a few coats of it.
thanx all. my concerns were hitting the bed too hard with sandpaper and maybe ruining the flatness of it.
 
If you have a small angle grinder (4.5") get a medium cup brush to go with it. It will polish it up like a new dime.
I spray mine with a rust converter (Rust Mort, etc) which converts any remaining rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate. This insures there is no rust in pores/dings. Wax/oil if you wish.
For prevention, a trash bag with 3-4 small magnets to keep it in place works fine. You can scrunch up the bag or spread it out as needed.
 
I use 0000 steel wool and WD-40. When clean I put on a coat of Johnsons Paste wax. My lathe is right next to my well pressure tank and other plumbing, area stays humid year round. No rust problems.
As for the tool rest, I needed a small rest also for pens and calls. So I just ordered a second from Grizzly and cut it down with an angle grinder. Custom made for only a few bucks.
 
I do the same as most have said here, first try to never let it rust, cover it for wet applications, CA, Finish on the lathe, etc... I have an old putty knife that I've sharped a little to scrape if I need to... Can't remember the name right now, but I have a rust remover that looks like pink pepto bismol and smells terrible, but cuts rust... we used it in the navy.... then I wax with past wax and I think it's a Johnson product... it's a can I've had forever.... or there is now a spray called "glide coat" that works well.... wax on/wax off..... or glide on/glide off...:D:D

Like Frank, I have a second tool rest that a friend gave me that I've cut to about 6" to do close work with... PSI has a set of 3 for a reasonable price, 12, 9 and 6 or 4 inches... but on a 5/8" post so you will need an adapter to fit the 1" on your 1642...
I also have a stainless steel set up that has a 1" post that screws into several different sized cross bars... also from PSI, I think... I have a 4", 6", an "S" curve for inside bowls and a flat bar that allows support inside cups and goblets and maybe hollow forms.
 
All the stuff mentioned works great, as well as making sure it does not happen to start with, but we know sometimes you cannot get away from it happening.

I have found the CRC 3-36 works really well. I live in humid Tokyo, and this stuff is the best by far, for one the smell is not overpowering, and it does not leave a super slick mess on everything, I cannot recommend it highly enough.

CRC--336reg-MultiPurpose-Lubricant--Corrosion-Inhibitors-1M2--ba.jpg
 
While lots of good advise given here I've moved on from WD-40 to using Evap0-Rust.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-quart-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96433.html or if you are a Prime member with Amazon it is $8.99 with free shipping.

Benefits is that it:

Contains No Acids
Non-Toxic
Biodegradable
No Fumes
Safe on skin
Super Safe Rust Remover
Non-Toxic, Non-Flammable, Odorless, safe on skin

I use a lot of Scotchbtite in either the Gray or Maroon .....
 
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