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Thread: Raised Panel Cabinet Doors

  1. #1
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    Aug 2007
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    Raised Panel Cabinet Doors

    Does anyone have a link to a good tutorial or just some tips on how to create raised panel doors?

    I've got the router bits for the cope and stick cuts and a raised panel cutter, as well as a decent router table.

    Looking for tips on how to size the doors to the opening, that sort of thing.

    I figure I'll practice a little bit on some practice wood first before I do the real doors.

    Thanks in advance for your help!

    Brent
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  2. #2
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    Brent, I've got a lot out of this link.





    It is basically an commercial for Sommerfeld tools. I have bought one of the cabinet sets as a replacement set and have been happy with them. Don't fall for the yellow circular height setting tool... I still haven't found that it worked that well. I'll give an update some day if I get a chance to work with it more now that I have rebuild my router table.
    Aloha,

    What goes around, comes around.

  3. #3
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    Thanks!
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  4. #4
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    Here is a tip to small they don't work.
    Sizing all depends on your door. Is it overlay or flush? Is it a half overlay or full overlay? Or is it half overlay with a rabbit? Now that these questions have been answered . How wide is the stock you are using? How much stock are you removing with the cutter? If it is half overlay with a rabbit how much stock is that cutter going to remove?
    It could be worse You could be on fire.
    Stupid hurts.

  5. #5
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    Some of my cutters give me a 3/8" deep groove and others 1/2" I use the little rubber spacers (not space balls) from Woodworkers Hardware.
    I determine my panel size by the opening of the door. As in, I dry assemble the door and measure the hole. I then add if its a 3/8" deep groove 7/16" for my panel width and height and if its a 1/2" deep groove I add 5/8" width and height. This gives me enough to just compress against the rubber spacers and allows for the wood to move.

    if I have a lot of doors to build as in for a kitchen ill work the math out to get an approximation of the panel size then I can at least make all the blanks and have them ready for final size when the time comes.
    also for 3/4" doors you generally want to make your raised panel 5/8" thick and cut the profile in 2 passes set the bit a little high and the fence forward slightly then drop the cutter and move the fence to the necessary position for the final cut. This takes wear and tear off the bit and reduces the risk of blowing out your panels when running them.

    On another note if you are doing flat panels as in a shaker door all they are are raised in reverse. for 3/4" thick stock I make a 3/8" thick panel so as not to protrude beyond the thickness of the back of the door and still provide a solid panel. (1/4" is too flimsy)

    Hope this helps!
    He who laughs last, thinks slowest

  6. #6
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    Very helpful! Thanks!
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  7. #7
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    thanks for the information Rich. I've only made one thing with raised panels and those were made on a table saw. You don't like the space balls?
    Aloha,

    What goes around, comes around.

  8. #8
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    chuck is right ofcourse, you size the door according to your opening and desired look. Inset, 1/2 inch overlays, 3/8 overlays, etc....
    for the panel, the bit set usually includes instructions since each set cuts grooves different depths.
    Its actually simple. How do I know? Because Ive made dozens of raised panels with my one bit set, theres really no mystery to it.
    Set up carefully, do the math, double check the math. No, you better check the math 4 times, then make your cuts.
    Human Test Dummy

  9. #9
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    Yep, That's why I was looking for a good tutorial of some sort, or tips.
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  10. #10
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    Brent,

    How to calculate the length of the stile is easy, as it is the length of the door. It is the rail length, and the panel height and width that is more involved. They have to take into account the interlock (tongue) and in case of the panel, the interlock and the expansion. The interlock is determined by your router bits. I suggest you get the instructions from your router bit OEM. I have a Whiteside stile and rail set and their online catalog (PDF) has an explanation on page 28 (pg 31 according to the PDF). They also have a separate PDF for their "Instructions for Style and Rail Setup".

    I found the following for Freud's 2 + 2 Raised Panel Bit Set. http://www.ptreeusa.com/PDF/RPD%20Instructions.pdf I really suggest that you find your raised panel bit set instructions as a first step.

    I prepare extra "stile" and "rail" components out of lesser wood for practice pieces which you will need to fine tune your setup.

    All of the above says nothing about fitting a door to an opening. If you are going to insert this door, then there is whole other discussion about fitting it into the opening.
    “When love and skill work together, expect a masterpiece.” - John Ruskin
    “Nowadays people know the price of everything and the value of nothing.” - Oscar Wilde

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