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Thread: Did a test on thursday just for fun.

  1. #1
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    Did a test on thursday just for fun.

    Here is what raw mahoganny looks like left with Em6000 and on the right hand side is same finish with a bit of general vintage cherry added to give it some color. Helped a great deal to take the plastic look out.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    The cherry gives a nice tone.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  3. #3
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    That is a significant difference. It looks to me like it gave the EM6000 more of an oil base finish tone.

  4. #4
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    I do that with the EM8000cv. Finishing schedule is usually as follows. first 2 coats gloss "kissed" with a bit of dye to act as a toner. (dye color varies by project) (I also use the catalyst with the EM8000cv) adjusting color each coat. Sand between coats first 600grit then 800 grit there after. Final coat I add flattening agent to adjust to desired sheen. This way the wood isn't occluded by a build up of flattener in each coat and gives a lot of depth to the wood.

    Looks great Rob!!! Half the fun is experimenting!
    He who laughs last, thinks slowest

  5. #5
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    My challenge with mahogany is getting the 'orange' out. Your example on the right is a definite improvement IMHO. Is that surface still pretty rough? What was the surface prep (sanding, planing)?
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    My challenge with mahogany is getting the 'orange' out...
    Perhaps a tiny touch of green dye in your finish. It won't take much - just a 'hint of tint.'
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  7. #7
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    Glenn this is totally raw from resaw no prep at all. Just wanted to see the difference.
    Jim I will try that once my significant order of more finishing product arrives, one of the things i have ordered is a set of transtint dyes and a color wheel then i can experiment. Also got some gloss on order.

    Been playing with two different small touch up guns and after using Larrys tricks i finally am seeing the light.

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  8. #8
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    The pic on the left is, to me, the problem using EM6000 as a sealer - the color of the wood doesn't come out. That is why I start with 1000, then go to the 6000.

    I prefer mahogany without any color added. For example this pair of bookcases were finished in EM1000 and EM6000, no added color, next to a historic mahogany harpsichord on the left and piano on the right.

    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  9. #9
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    Rob your learning brother. Now if you want to try adding a few drops of green and do a test. Cherry/Mahogany is sweat I use it a lot when finishing both cherry and mahogany but I add the green to cool the red a bit.
    I dream a lot. I do more painting when I'm not painting. It's in the subconscious.
    ::: Andrew Wyeth :::
    colonialrestorationstudio.com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hawksford View Post
    Rob your learning brother. Now if you want to try adding a few drops of green and do a test. Cherry/Mahogany is sweat I use it a lot when finishing both cherry and mahogany but I add the green to cool the red a bit.
    I've tested using TT green and it worked pretty well. On one project about ten years ago, the client wanted mahogany but not so much red, as usually happens. I did several tests and the best result was using TT Dark Mission Brown. On some woods, the TT DMB looks kinda muddy but it had the desired result of reducing the redness of the mahogany.
    Bill Arnold
    Citizen of Texas residing in Georgia.
    NRA Life Member and Member of Mensa
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