The cherry gives a nice tone.
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That is a significant difference. It looks to me like it gave the EM6000 more of an oil base finish tone.
I do that with the EM8000cv. Finishing schedule is usually as follows. first 2 coats gloss "kissed" with a bit of dye to act as a toner. (dye color varies by project) (I also use the catalyst with the EM8000cv) adjusting color each coat. Sand between coats first 600grit then 800 grit there after. Final coat I add flattening agent to adjust to desired sheen. This way the wood isn't occluded by a build up of flattener in each coat and gives a lot of depth to the wood.
Looks great Rob!!! Half the fun is experimenting!
He who laughs last, thinks slowest
My challenge with mahogany is getting the 'orange' out. Your example on the right is a definite improvement IMHO. Is that surface still pretty rough? What was the surface prep (sanding, planing)?
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Glenn this is totally raw from resaw no prep at all. Just wanted to see the difference.
Jim I will try that once my significant order of more finishing product arrives, one of the things i have ordered is a set of transtint dyes and a color wheel then i can experiment. Also got some gloss on order.
Been playing with two different small touch up guns and after using Larrys tricks i finally am seeing the light.
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The pic on the left is, to me, the problem using EM6000 as a sealer - the color of the wood doesn't come out. That is why I start with 1000, then go to the 6000.
I prefer mahogany without any color added. For example this pair of bookcases were finished in EM1000 and EM6000, no added color, next to a historic mahogany harpsichord on the left and piano on the right.
Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
(Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com
Rob your learning brother. Now if you want to try adding a few drops of green and do a test. Cherry/Mahogany is sweat I use it a lot when finishing both cherry and mahogany but I add the green to cool the red a bit.
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