Did a test on thursday just for fun.

Rob Keeble

Member
Messages
12,633
Location
GTA Ontario Canada
Here is what raw mahoganny looks like left with Em6000 and on the right hand side is same finish with a bit of general vintage cherry added to give it some color. Helped a great deal to take the plastic look out.
uploadfromtaptalk1419736594969.jpg

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
I do that with the EM8000cv. Finishing schedule is usually as follows. first 2 coats gloss "kissed" with a bit of dye to act as a toner. (dye color varies by project) (I also use the catalyst with the EM8000cv) adjusting color each coat. Sand between coats first 600grit then 800 grit there after. Final coat I add flattening agent to adjust to desired sheen. This way the wood isn't occluded by a build up of flattener in each coat and gives a lot of depth to the wood.

Looks great Rob!!! Half the fun is experimenting!
 
My challenge with mahogany is getting the 'orange' out. Your example on the right is a definite improvement IMHO. Is that surface still pretty rough? What was the surface prep (sanding, planing)?
 
Glenn this is totally raw from resaw no prep at all. Just wanted to see the difference.
Jim I will try that once my significant order of more finishing product arrives, one of the things i have ordered is a set of transtint dyes and a color wheel then i can experiment. Also got some gloss on order.

Been playing with two different small touch up guns and after using Larrys tricks i finally am seeing the light. :)

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
The pic on the left is, to me, the problem using EM6000 as a sealer - the color of the wood doesn't come out. That is why I start with 1000, then go to the 6000.

I prefer mahogany without any color added. For example this pair of bookcases were finished in EM1000 and EM6000, no added color, next to a historic mahogany harpsichord on the left and piano on the right.

Knien0276down.JPG
 
Rob your learning brother. Now if you want to try adding a few drops of green and do a test. Cherry/Mahogany is sweat I use it a lot when finishing both cherry and mahogany but I add the green to cool the red a bit.
 
Rob your learning brother. Now if you want to try adding a few drops of green and do a test. Cherry/Mahogany is sweat I use it a lot when finishing both cherry and mahogany but I add the green to cool the red a bit.

I've tested using TT green and it worked pretty well. On one project about ten years ago, the client wanted mahogany but not so much red, as usually happens. I did several tests and the best result was using TT Dark Mission Brown. On some woods, the TT DMB looks kinda muddy but it had the desired result of reducing the redness of the mahogany.
 
Thanks for the input, I have ordered a bunch of finishing stuff both from our Target guy and Joe woodworker. When i get it i will do some experimenting and try out the green trick.

I was just amazed at what the stain did to the satin Em6000. Have ordered both gloss Em6000 and Charlies recommendation of the EM1000 and also some shellac to try out the differences.

I can see now the best way is to experiment and Larry made a good point about using syringes to get the dosing right each time. Have a bunch of them need to find where i hid them in the shop.
 
Rob you will get two different color tones , 1 by sealing the wood 1st and then adding color in a spray glaze of sealer and stain. 2. Spraying the stain with a little sealer added. I use 1/3 stain, 1/3 sealer, 1/3 thinner , for a spray stain toner and for a glaze over sealer I use 2/3rds stain 1/3 sealer and a touch of thinner to help the spay flow even.
 
Top