wipe on varnish formula

Rich Soby

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Cape Cod, Ma.
Im going to be finishing this old beam for the mantel im building.

http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?34763-400-year-old-barn-beam-reclaimed

I don't want a film finish but pure tung oil takes too long to dry on its own. Here is what Im considering.
A mix 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 turps and 1/3 epifanes varnish. (I know, generic mix) apply 3 or more coats sanding 320 - 400 between. Finished with either bees wax or boston floor wax as a top coat, buffed to a satin sheen.

Thoughts? Pointers?
 
Rich, my opinion: tung oil won't do anything that linseed oil won't do, and BLO will cure more quickly. The other thing (just a personal preference) is that turpentine has a very strong smell, using MS will reduce that some. So, I think what you want to do is fine...but I'd change to a BLO/MS/varnish mix and use it. The other thing is that Epifanes is an excellent varnish, an alkyd resin marine spar, intended for outdoor use. You could substitute Pratt and Lambert 38 (also an alkyd resin, but with a soya oil for the oil component) if you can find it. Back to your question: tung oil (and all drying oils) cure be reacting with oxygen. Adding things to them (except metallic driers) generally doesn't speed up the drying, though adding varnish could cause the varnish to tack up and give you a dry-to-the-touch effect (and that may be what you want). The reason the BLO cures more quickly is that is has the metallic driers added. You can accelerate the process with a little warmth, and a fan blowing a gently across the surface.
 
Rich I've used the same mix as Fred on quite a few tables made from logs, bowls, and a few other things. It's basically the same as any name brand danish oil, but cheaper to mix yourself. I'm pretty sure that is the same as Sam Maloof used on his chairs as well.
 
Rich I've used the same mix as Fred on quite a few tables made from logs, bowls, and a few other things. It's basically the same as any name brand danish oil, but cheaper to mix yourself. I'm pretty sure that is the same as Sam Maloof used on his chairs as well.

Sam's formula was similar. Here's a quote I found on the web, but Don Baer may have more details, since he's talked to Sam about such things:

Sam Maloof said:
It is a mixture of one-third linseed oil, one-third raw tung oil, and one-third semigloss urethane varnish. I apply it generously and then rub it off completely so there isn't a wet spot left anywhere. I let it sit overnight and then add another coat. The process is repeated about 4 times. Then I make a batch of finish that is half linseed oil and half tung oil with some shredded beeswax mixed in. I put two coats of that finish on, and the chair's finished, ready to be used.

sounds almost like the finish i use on my pens and pencils. blo/dna/shellac.

Using poly (or some other varnish) will be more durable than shellac.
 
Would Japan drier accelerate the curing of pure tung oil in this application? Just wondering since tung doesn't darken as much as blo does.

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Thanks all. Im going to go with the Epifanes and tung oil mix. Years ago I used BLO and found its not very durable. Havent been a fan of it since. Ive always liked the look tung oil gave and the Epifanes is tung oil based so.... I like Maloof's recipe and this is similar sans the linseed oil. Ill post pics when its done. Oh I also have a small countertop to make in the room from another couple of beams I got out of an 18th century horse barn. Havent cut into them yet but going to very shortly.
Thank you again for your ideas and input.
 
2015-01-11 10.03.36.jpg

First coat .25 Epifanes .25 pure tung oil .50 mineral spirits. brushed on let it soak in kept applying over areas that soaked it up quickly, let it flow into the checks and holes. then wiped it as dry as I could get it. Left it sit for about 24 hours and just applied second coat. Which was 1/3 Epifanes 1/3 tung oil and 1/3 mineral spirits. After sanding with 220 by hand and wiped down.
So far so good. Its drying nicely and really bringing out the beauty of the old wood.
 
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Will have some up later today Dave. Im putting one more coat of beeswax/tung oil on and then installing. The site has better lighting so I should be able to get some decent pics.
I have to say Im really loving this finish!
 
been waiting 24 hours +/- between coats. I couldn't really say what the dry time has been as Ive put a coat on last thing and not gotten back to it till the next afternoon/evening. by then each coat has been dry to the touch.
This last coat I put on this morning and didn't rub it out for a couple hours. its still a little oily so.... and that's been 4 hours

Here was my finish schedule. first coat 50 ms 25 TO 25 epifanes
second coat I added to the original mix the same quantity of TO and epifanes but no additional mineral spirits
third coat repeat. Each coat I brushed on and worked into all the checks and knots left it sit for a few minutes then with a rag worked it into the wood going over it repeatedly until it was almost dry to the touch.
The top coat was a 50 50 mix of pure bees wax and pure tung oil. I heated over a double boiler just until the wax melted and incorporated into the tung oil.
This I applied while it was still warm and hadn't solidified yet. rubbed in rubbed off
Second application I heated it again and added a bit more tung oil as the first when it set up was very hard in the pan. same thing applied warm and rubbed off
Third coat the oil/wax was malleable about the consistency of a can of car wax on a warm day. this I used straight from the pot and left it sit for a couple hours before rubbing it off.

and here are the results

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