Need Tool Advice

Table saws are a very long discussion, but think "used". I've seen some really good deals on all varieties latlely. As for the router and table, I'll suggest you build one (might be hard to do without a table saw) but don't be in a hurry. Get the router first. Many of them have built in table features, and if you want one that does it all my favorite is the Milwaukee 566=24 lit. That way you have a plunge base for use when not in the table, a fixed bade with the table adjustments, and plenty of power for all but the largest of bits. There are some other excellent choices out there as well, the Bosch 1617 is a favorite of a lot of folks.
 
Greatly depend on what kind of budget you have, I would love to have (and sure hope to some day) a stopsaw tablesaw http://www.sawstop.com safest and an extremely good saw. I built my out router table, nothing fancy and am only using a porter cable 190. It is only 1 3/4 hp and it works, but would love to have a 3 plus hp one such as a Milwaukee with a router lift of some kind.
 
Fred gives good advice.

Get the table saw first, then the router - then use both of them to build your router table.

Many of us have used the basic plan version from the old "New Yankee Workshop" series. Mine started out that way, and has been modified quite a bit over the years, and I know that others here have added 'personal touches' to theirs as well. The basic design makes a very good, solid table with nearly all the features you'll need, though.
 
Good advice from the others. Depending on your budget, you might want to consider a Grizzly table saw. There's no question that SawStop is a great option, if you have the budget for it. I considered it last year when I wanted some updated features and ultimately decided on a Grizzly unit.

Having a seperate cabinet for a router table is a good option, but another thing to consider is mounting a router in a table saw extension. That will conserve floor space, if necessary.
 
I use the router in the table saw extension method that Bill mentioned and have been happy with it. The only drawback I found is that it eats up what might otherwise be storage space under the extension. If I had a do over and no dollar limit I would go with the Sawstop professional or industrial saw and get a separate router table. There are many cast iron router tables out there: MLCS, Bench Dog, Excaliber, etc. I would look at one of them for routing small stuff and then debate myself on whether to add a shaper and power feeder to the shop for larger stuff.
 
We would need a budget to give you any meaningful sort of answer. There are a lot of answers to your question. I got a lot of miles out of a 1970's Craftsman after I threw a few hundred dollars of after-market stuff at it and this can make a nice phased approach if money is tight. On the router table I took a more direct route from a Ryobi POS in a contractor saw extension to a Milwaukee 5625 in a lift, in a commercial top, mounted to the shop made cabinet shown. This whole rig bolts to the left of the saw.

The only drawback I found is that it eats up what might otherwise be storage space under the extension.

That depends ;-) This is my old saw but the same RT rig now hangs off my Saw Stop.

Ext_Wing_Gone_Wild.jpgRT-Wing.JPGRT-Wing-2.JPG
 
There is no one right answer for these questions. There are too many variables. Budget and space are but two, but a very important two. Then comes, what are your intended projects? That will dictate to some extent the nature of the beasts you are looking to get.

I've made a bench top saw function as a cabinet saw. The fences is the more important issue with saws. Within each of the three categories of saws, bench-top, contractor's, and cabinet saw, there is a wide range of choices.

Router tables can be in many configurations but only one feature is non-negotiable. The table mus be and remain flat; not a thing to assume! Every tool has its sweet spot in terms of application and is a compromise at best in different applications. We need more information to give your better direction.

So generally speaking, what do you want to build, what is your budget for tools, and how big is your shop space?
 
I have had the router table fit between the fence guides where it also acted as an extension to the saw table. I have had the router with its own dedicated ShopVac on its own dedicated cabinet. For the things I have done, both ways worked fine. However (There is always a "However") the separate router table eliminates the problem of wanting to use the router top for two different things at the same time. I do slightly prefer the separate table.

One great big thing with me is that I want to adjust the router bit height, easily and from above the table. It isn't the fact that you have to get up and down (though that is a factor). It is the fact that you can turn a crank above the table and VERY EASILY adjust the height 128th of an inch if you wish to do so---and I guarantee that you will wish to do so in the future. This kind of adjustment is extremely accurate and only takes about 3 seconds.

Enjoy and have fun with your new toys,
JimB
 
What kind of work do you need to do? A portable job site table saw, a solid contractor style saw, a hybrid type saw, or a cabinet saw all excel at different things. The "right" saw for you depends on what you need it to do.
In general, i like the "used" advise. Most all of my machinery comes that way, and i've had great luck and deals with nearly all of it. For me, woodworking is a hobby, so i don't want to swallow up my materials money just on the tools.

For rough carpentry work, a job site saw will be hard to beat, but they're not that great with sheet goods and are hard to "dial in" for exacting work.
Contractor saws (a metal box on an open metal stand with a belt drive motor hanging out the back) are a solid design, plentiful and easy to find (ie: inexpensive), and can be tuned up for very fine work. The motor out the back takes up some space, and dust collection is difficult, but many of them are really great saws. The Craftsman "100" and similar models were made forever and have a great reputation. I see them go for cheap all the time.
Hybrid saws are, in a lot of ways, similar to contractor saws, but have the benefit of housing the motor in the cabinet, which gives you much better dust collection.
Cabinet saws are absolute brutes, built stout and made to run all day long. These are generally very high quality, but are not what you'd call portable.

Unless portability is really important, i'd vote for something with a cast iron top and solid iron extensions, a belt drive motor of 1-1/2 hp or so, a ten inch blade (though for most work an 8" blade is plenty), and a really good fence (Biesemeyer type, Vega, or other good quality fence). I used a saw for years with bad stock fence. It was frustrating to use and difficult to adjust. I upgraded the fence to a Biesemeyer clone, and it was like i got a whole new saw. Suddenly it was a total joy to use.

As to the router, there's a range there too. For a standard general purpose router, i'd look for something with multiple collet sizes. If you're going to mount it in a table, get a bigger one that can handle larger bits. Panel bits will help if you're building cabinetry. The kits look like pretty good deals - with the fixed and plunge bases. Personally, i don't like using routers all that much. I have two of them and do use them, but i'm not the best person to ask.

Then, after you've settled in with your basics, you'll probably want to consider a good drill press, perhaps a disc sander (mine is home made and works great), maybe a band saw, and (if you're thinking of saving money by purchasing rough cut wood stock) a jointer and planer. One of the most used, but unsung machines in my shop is the dust collector. I have a simple 1hp model to which i added a Wynn filter. I just plug it into whatever machine i'm using at the time. With my basement shop, it's what keeps my wife happy.

Oh, and a bench grinder is a great tool too.

And of course a decent work bench.

It's a slippery slope.

paulh
 
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