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Thread: Old Table Saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Exeter, CA

    Old Table Saw

    Ok, I'm new, have done quite a bit of refinishing, now I'm wanting to actually build something of my own. So I'm starting to get some tools. I have 5 daughters, two steps on, two ex wives, and one wife, so, uh well funding is sometimes slim. Anyway my pop gave me this table saw. It works. No idea what or when it was made....

    Look familiar to anyone? Not the prettiest, but price was right
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails uploadfromtaptalk1420940656174.jpg   uploadfromtaptalk1420940679517.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    S E Washington State
    Looks like a Craftsman contractor saw from the 70's or so. Were great saws in their day, and still lots of them in use. I had one for over 30 years. Their weakest part is the fence, but that can be upgraded.
    "We the People ......"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Humid Gulf Coast
    5 daughters, the weddings alone are enough to put you in the poorhouse--lol.

    I agree with upgrading the fence. It will make a world of difference in convenience on that saw.

    Also, where the blade spins, there are bearings. With the blade fully elevated and the saw UNPLUGGED!

    give the blade some pressure sideways, both ways. If it feels like the bearings are bad, replace them.

    You want a nice accurate blade path when its spinning.

    Use some wet/dry sandpaper and de-rust the tabletop and then use wax with no SILICONE in it on the metal.

    Silicone is this enemy of woodworking finishes as you already probably know.

    1. Riving Knives:

    2. Table Saw Tune Up:

    3. Blade Selection:
    It's kind of fun to do the impossible

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Exeter, CA
    First thank you guys tremoundsly. You have no idea how much that helps.
    2nd How do I go about upgrading the fence?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Kansas City, Missouri
    There are several after market fences available, most are $200+. If it's not in your budget, the one you have should work fine, you may just have to double check that it locks down squarely and if not adjust it until it does by bumping the rear side of the fence left or right. Measure off of the one of the miter slots to check that the distance is the same front and back when locked down. I grew up with one similar and you just made it a habit to set the distance to the blade from the fence, then measure what the distance is to one of the miter slots, then make sure the front and rear of the fence is that same distance before making a cut. If not, besides getting really bad saw marks, you can get a kickback or have your hand sucked into the path of the blade if not careful.

    Follow Scott's advice and check the bearings and watch the videos. The one on table saw tuning is a good one especially.

    One other note, when using a table saw, never stand behind directly behind the blade...always stand to the left of it. If your work gets wedged between the blade and fence, there is a good chance of a kickback, you don't want to be behind that piece.

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    ABQ NM
    Good advice so far. To further clarify the term "kickback", that is when a piece of wood is propelled backward (toward the operator) suddenly and at a high rate of speed (something like 130 mph if memory serves). Needless to say, kickback is a bad thing. It can seriously injure you.
    When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
    When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!
    And now a rambling opinion that you are free to skip .

    To further define the term "kickback", this is something that many people take with a grain of salt or fail to give adequate credit to because they have never had it happen. In a best case scenario, you are cutting something and then, just like magic, the material is gone as if it vanished (this was my fortunate experience and a gift from the shop-gods as far as I'm concerned) . . . it happens that quick. Your eye cannot follow it, you cannot stop it and you cannot get out of the way. As you stand there baffled, you will hear a clunk or a bang or a crash as the piece lands somewhere in the shop.

    Worse cases involve you meeting the blade or the kickback projectile meeting you. The stories of lessor kickbacks spawn from folks using small tabletop saws where one can actually overpower the saw when things go south. Once you get to the level of a decent jobsite saw up through contractor saw, cab saw and so forth, our mighty muscles become useless against this phenomena.

    The gentleman below was good enough to share his mistake (cutting a small end off of a longer blank which kicked back in his face) with others as a warning in taking safety too casually. Remember that thing you read about staying out of line with the blade? He posted again about a year later and now bears a scar in the shape of a letter "L" on his forehead which he good-naturedly says stands for "loser". Kudos to him for keeping his sense of humor (sorry for the kind of gross picture, don't scroll down if it will bother you):

    Click image for larger version. 

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    At any rate, this is not intended as a fear-tactic. We all drive cars everyday and lots more accidents happen on the road than in the shop. Put your tools in proper working order and follow your safety procedures and all will be well.

    A splitter of some kind is not an option in my opinion. A poorly functioning fence or miter gauge is just asking for trouble. A tablesaw sled should be one of your first jig projects; they add safety and can make up for a poor miter gauge if that's all you have.

    As mentioned, you can measure between the fence you have and the front of the blade and the rear of the blade each time you lock it down to assure it is parallel. Having had one of those fences I can pretty much tell you it will not lock down correctly by itself unless by rare accident. Double check each time, this is a safety concern.

    Blade guards are another discussion as a poor one is more dangerous than not having one (this is not true of fences and guages; NEVER make a cut without a fence or a gauge/sled on the tablesaw, NEVER free hand). There is a ton of material out there on how to safely use our tools. There is a ton of experience and willingness to hole on this forum. Take advantage of it and us .

    Sorry for the long rambling tirade .

    P.s. here's a pic of my 1970's Craftsman back when I had it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's an Align-a-Rip fence, an Incra miter gauge (ignore the shop made miter gauge fence position, you would never use one like that, it was for the pic), a PSI overarm guard/dust collection hood, a Rockler router table bolted on as an extension, etc. You can see the little plywood paddle I built over the power switch to allow me to turn the saw off with my hip. You can also see the bag of Ready-crete that I wrapped in plastic and set in the base to add mass for stability. It also has the usual suspects; machined pulleys, link belt, ZCI with splitter and so forth. Just an example of what you can do with the saw you show but, you should add the safety items first IMHO. Most of all, have fun!
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 01-11-2015 at 03:09 PM.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Central Illinois
    Hello Tom,

    Welcome to the forum! Your saw looks very much like one I bought a few years ago and have been steadily upgrading. Here are a couple of links that may give you some ideas for some add-ons:
    "The more I know people, the more I like my tools."

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    DSM, IA
    Tom, I have a similar version of that saw as well. Take the time to tune the fence and it will work great, but it does need attention from time to time to make sure it's still tuned. I didn't tune mine right away and eventually took a piece of maple to the hand and belly on a kickback. I got very lucky compared to the guy Glenn referenced.

    A fence upgrade is in my future at some time, but hasn't happened quite yet.
    A man is rich in proportion to the number of things he can afford to let alone. -Henry David Thoreau
    My Website

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    As freebie saws go, that one's got some good potential. It's an older US made Emerson/Craftsman contractor saw...definitely a 113....possibly a 113.298761, but they had dozens of iterations of basically the same saw. The basic design of this saw ended up in Ryobi made Cman contractor saws (315.######), and the Emerson and Ryobi made Ridgid contractor saws....all well regarded. Many of the parts are interchangeable. That steel fence was the weakest link. You might find a used Alignarip or Ridgid fence that'd be a direct bolt on, or you could scout a deal on the Delta T2 or T3 (~ $200 shipped)....or just make due with the one that's on there. If you watch Craigslist long enough, you might see one of the descendants mentioned above that has the updated fence...if it's cheap enough, buy the whole thing, take the fence, then resell it with the old Emerson fence.

    In any event, get the fence and blade aligned as well as possible, and put a decent blade on it. They start at ~ $30 for a surprisingly good blade if you're selective. Good luck!
    Got Wood?

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