Goblet Plans

Jerry Gilman

Member
Messages
41
Location
knoxville, TN
Here is a quick sketch of the Goblet glue-up (does not include the stem or foot of the goblet, that will be done later and is more complicated).

Your looking at the end view of a completed glue-up (3.5 inches long).

1-The central square core should be about 1/2" square (this core is then
wrapped in veneer on all four sides.
2- Four triangles (3.5 inches long are glued to the core's veneer to form
the second tier.
3- The second tier is then wrapped in veneer, and this process is repeated
until you have built up all the tiers show in the diagram.
4- The final step is to glue 1/4 thick pieces of wood that are 3.5 inches long
to each side.
5- The piece is mounted to the lathe making certain that the piece is
mounted dead center (the design will be ruined if this is not done).

Notes: It is crucial that the triangles meet to form a perfect square,
covering all the veneer as you build each level.

The steeper the angle of the cuts (goblet taper) the thinner
the contrasting veneers will appear and visa versa.

You can add more tiers if you want, but not less than shown.

This is a difficult project that will require taking your time and making
certain that the pieces are cut and sanded perfectly. But I know you
can do it. When you get the goblets top completed post a photo and
I will walk you thru the foots design which is more complicated.

I drew the diagram quickly by hand, so each section may not be perfectly equilateral (just ignore this).
 

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Thanks Jerry!

Just a quick questions.....

What tool do you use for cutting the various parts, and can you tell us why?

If a tablesaw, for example, what kind of blade do you use, a ripping blade, or a finishing blade?

If the bandsaw, what kind of blade?

Do you cut slightly large and then use the disk sander to true everything up?

I'm just curious what methods you have found that give you the most consistent results.

Thanks!:thumb:
 
I do all the cutting on the tablesaw with an Amana Prestige blade.
I use a number of special jigs to hold the individule pieces as I run them thru
the drum sander (this type of work requires each piece to fit perfectly).
I use a tablesaw sled with toggle clamps to hold small pieces in place, then run the sled along the fence to make the cuts. Then the pieces go into the drum sander jigs to remove the blade marks or fine tune the size of each piece. When cutting pieces like the triangles for the ornament, uses a miter angle sled here is a link http://www.turnedwood.com/framesled.html

When cutting the triangles for the goblet, its best to cut one long tiangle from a long board at least 6 inches wide (then cut into small segments). Run the board past the blade set to 45 degress, then flip over the board and run it past the blade again to finish the long triangle piece. Be sure to set the fence to cut about 1/8 wider than the finished piece (you will clean up the cuts at the drum sander or planner). Always use a zero clearance insert in the saw.

To make a jig to clean up the goblet triangles, cut a V notch in some MDF for a carrier, then double stick tape the long triangle into the notch. Now you can run the piece under the sander/planner to sneak up on the correct size.

Hope this helps.
 
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