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Thread: no more link belts

  1. #1
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    no more link belts

    at least for my williams-n-hussey!......today i smoked, as in melted 3 seperate link belts......all fenners.....went to the local auto parts store and picked up a cogged v belt.....smoother running than the fenners ever where, and when i jambed the moulder the belt squeeled like a stuck hog but never melted like the fenner belts do...........so a 6 dollar automotive belt has found a perminent home where the supposedly superior link belts once resided.
    i`ll keep some fenners for such things as the dust collector where i`d have to crack the babbits to change regular belts, but for power transmission it`s plain ol` cogged v belts from now on.
    hope this post will save somebody a few bucks?.........tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  2. #2
    Steve Clardy Guest
    So the ol' 5hp smoked em huh.

  3. #3
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    4" wide 7/8" deap in a single pass torqued it a bit ......regular belt`s holding up fine!
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tod evans View Post
    a 6 dollar automotive belt has found a perminent home where the supposedly superior link belts once resided
    Been saying that for a long time Tod. Don't get me wrong, the link belts are useful when you'd have to dissemble a machine such as a lathe headstock, but for regular applications a good quality belt will almost always serve you better. Much cheaper, smoother running, better power transmission. While you'll hear lots of folks extol the wonderful results they got from link belts, you have to put it in perspective. These folks are replacing either low quality or old, worn out belts (or both) to Begin with... Any belt would be an improvement!

    On another tack, I'm not sure of the setup on your williams-n-hussey, but if your running only a single belt you might consider going to a double or even triple sheave pulley if your pushing it hard on a regular basis. While there are a lot of variables, generally HP is really starting to push the limits of a single V belt.

    Mike

  5. #5
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    mike, when williams-n-hussey designed the machine they did so with a 2hp motor in mind, that`s why they used a single belt. when i set this one up i opted for a 5hp motor.....just a tad more than the factory recomends ...but, i wanted to leave a weak link in the drive train so as not to over torque the spindle......something about several pounds of sharp steel getting loose at 6k-rpm just worries me ....the 5hp never gets hot the way the ol` 2-3 hp motors i`ve ran did, even after 3-4hrs of continious use!
    and so far using the belt as the weak link has proved to be effective...tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  6. #6
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    Tod, I hear what your saying. I used to work for a v-belt manufacturer and have seen how a rubber v-belt compares to a link belt when running side by side. I know link belts have there place, but for my money if you can install a standard v-belt you are much better off in cost and performance. I can't understand why equipment manufacturers will put a $0.75 belt on a piece of equipment which costs $1000+.

    Wes Billups
    Last edited by Wes Billups; 04-26-2007 at 04:13 PM.

  7. #7
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    OK, so how do you know you're getting a "good quality" v belt, and not a cheaply made inferior product.

  8. #8
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    "OK, so how do you know you're getting a "good quality" v belt, and not a cheaply made inferior product."

    Ken, go to any automotive or industrial supply store and ask for a cut-edge belt. They are manufactured without splices and have cogs or transverse grooves which make them extremely smooth running. Just about any size and length we use in woodworking should be under $10. Don't let them sell you a Kevlar corded belt as the additional strength isn't needed in our applications and can actually be detrimental.

    I believe Autozone is even starting to carry industrial v-belts which is what you want. The automotive v-belts are typically different sizes than industrial belts; ie. different side wall angles and top widths.

    Wes Billups

  9. #9
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    I've been experimenting with the Fenner Drive stuff, recently. My drill press likes em, makes speed changes a breeze. My shaper hates em -- similar experience to Tod's. Might have something to do with speed and torgue required for certain machines. A spindle moulder defintely can experience terrific loads. I have always opted for cogged automotive belts in the past with very good results.
    Mini Max Tool Acquisition Mediator.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tod evans View Post
    mike, when williams-n-hussey designed the machine they did so with a 2hp motor in mind, that`s why they used a single belt. when i set this one up i opted for a 5hp motor.....just a tad more than the factory recomends ...but, i wanted to leave a weak link in the drive train so as not to over torque the spindle......something about several pounds of sharp steel getting loose at 6k-rpm just worries me ....the 5hp never gets hot the way the ol` 2-3 hp motors i`ve ran did, even after 3-4hrs of continious use!
    and so far using the belt as the weak link has proved to be effective...tod
    Tod, sounds like you've thought it out and it makes sense to me

    Ken, any good bearing/power transmission shop will have quality belts. The automotive stores are also an option, but jut make sure you get the good quality and not the bargain basement ones. Ask the parts guy which is which, they should know if it's a decent parts store. Personally I prefer to deal with the professional industrial supply and bearing places as they have a reputation to uphold and deal with professional customers who know the difference and expect quality.

    Mike

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