new shop in the works

Yes that was the plan Stu. Also provides some insulation from the slab. They make a product just for this type of application. 16x16 squares with a plastic backing.

I can only imagine that much space :huh: :rolleyes:

I understand the want to put in a slab it sure it easier, and down the road the space could be converted to use for cars etc, but I have to say that having made the MISTAKE of not putting a wooden floor on top of my concrete one, I would very seriously suggest that if you do end up with a slab, at least float a wooden floor on it, maybe you can't run your duct work under it, but you can surely run some wires like a wire for the tablesaw in the middle of shop etc.

Really a wooden floor is the way to go, even on top of a slab!
 
Drew,

You make me so happy that I am not building a house at this time. I think back to our first custom house---it was a "No Sweat" deal. Everything went quickly and simply.

You have my sympathy and best wishes. Once when I had some sweat issues, Glenn said, "Dad it's a hobby. This is part of the hobby; try to enjoy it."

Oh, I could not get any of your pics. All I could get was black and white with the little spinning circle in the middle of it.

Enjoy,
JimB
 
Sorry about the pictures I am not sure why they will not load. I will try again to take more pictures and see if it is the pixel size that has some effect. I usually shoot in RAW and then convert for posting so it could have something to do with the conversion. I will try again Thanks for letting me know about the problem. Yes I remember the days when it was so less complicated. It was just a simple thing with no fancy products that seem to demand engineers to get involved. I have built things way simpler and larger in way colder climates than here with no issues at all. I really miss those days.

Drew,

You make me so happy that I am not building a house at this time. I think back to our first custom house---it was a "No Sweat" deal. Everything went quickly and simply.

You have my sympathy and best wishes. Once when I had some sweat issues, Glenn said, "Dad it's a hobby. This is part of the hobby; try to enjoy it."

Oh, I could not get any of your pics. All I could get was black and white with the little spinning circle in the middle of it.

Enjoy,
JimB
 
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Building codes seem like they're often a mess. As one friend put it "not confusing the issue with logic".

Hopefully you'll figure out a way past the issue and be able to get some progress in while the weather is good. I'd be tempted to say it was uninsulated and then " change my mind" post construction as well.
 
So back to the drawing board with the plans and have gone back to my original plans with a simple footing and perimeter foundation wall of 24 inches. Will damp proof and then back fill and frame a floor and run the ducting under the floor. Yes I will insulate at a later date once everything is passed. It is after all a shop.
 
Drew...I wouldn't give up without paying for an hour or so of an engineer/architects time to examine all the code compliant methods of doing what you want. You might find solutions in terms of methods and timing that are not as expensive as you think and it would give you what you want without regrets. There is usually more than one way to skin the cat.
 
Yes Ted I have talked with an engineer and he is tied up for the next 2 months with projects but I have told him what I am looking at doing and he said he might be able to come by and look at it next week to figure something out. Once the engineer stamps it the inspector can say nothing to how I am building it.
 
So after careful consideration and talking to the inspector I have decided the size of the shop that is allowable without engineering is 592 sqft which allows a 20 x28 ft shop/ garage. Am meeting with a couple of local contractors in the next two days to talk about what can be done as well as costs to what ideas they have and what they have run into before dealing with this inspector. See what kind of price they can give for just the slab and or to do all the framing. Not that I cant do that but if the price is right and I can work with them.
 
Oh yeah! Great looking slice of heaven. Looks like you have good stable soil too. Also looks like you have cut pretty close to a couple of large trees doing your site prep. FWIW my experience on a couple hundred sites, and a general rule of thumb doing site planning around here is that if you impact more than 50% of a trees root system (from the trunk out to the edge of the drip line), the odds are good the tree will go into a gradual decline and be dead within a few years. Might be different in your climate, but worth considering. Sometimes better to take them down now when you have lots of room to drop them, instead of waiting and then having to hire a pro because the problem tree is right next to your building. Also, if you change the grade around the tree by filling much more than 6 inches, the tree won't be too happy.
 
We were very careful with the excavation and not going too deep ( this is why I have been having to figure what is the best way to do this without going down 2-4 ft with the footings and wall. That large cedar tree will be staying and we were very careful in not touching any of the roots. The only roots we ran into were those of the two big fir stumps we had to take out as well as lots of small struggling scrub trees that were half dead. Surprisingly the roots were not deep on any of the big trees there. I am looking now at putting the foundation wall around three sides of the building and will be back filling up to the building by aprox two feet. We had planned to take down the one maple behind the shop and that has to be done before any work starts. I still have another maple along the power line route that has to come down as it is right in line with the shop and by the looks of it we will be going underground with the power lines.
 
....Surprisingly the roots were not deep on any of the big trees there. ....
Most tree roots are in the top 18"....up where they can breathe and find moisture. Another area of concern is drainage. If you are cutting into a side hill, make sure there is enough space on the uphill side for a swale to carry away water, maybe even consider a foundation drain to daylight on three sides, just in case the swale gets overwhelmed.
 
Have been very careful with the trees Ted no large roots were touched. There will be a foundation wall now so there will be back fill and drainage around the three sides ( though we do have good drainage here ). It has been a challenge dealing with this build as I am on an island and limited to manpower that know what they are doing. This is why I have resigned myself to hiring a contractor to come in with his crew to do the job. I have formed bigger jobs as well as framed lots but now with my injuries I am limited to what I am able to do. It really is frustrating as I am chomping at the bit to get it all started. I could be getting the forms all built and such but promised the wife I will not do a thing.
 
Makes me sore just reading about digging that many holes. Of course I'm envisioning the nice red clay soil we have around here and the high water table that turns it all into a concrete paste on my augers with each jab. ;) Looks like a nice days work. :lurk:
 
Gotta hand it to you. Hand digging all those holes would take me a week. Of course, my method is to dig a hole and then sit and have a beer, dig a hole, have a beer. It's only good for a few holes a day, but very relaxing:D
 
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