Satin Polyurethane usable as Gloss?

David Agnew

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I have some Minwax brand Oil based Fast-Drying Polyurethane in Satin finish. My understanding of polyurethane is that it's all "gloss" and they get Satin and Semi-Gloss finish by adding "flattening" agents. I believe this is why the instructions say to stir before and during use; to keep the flatteners in suspension.

I rarely use gloss poly and have none on hand, but I want to use it this time. However, being cheap, I don't want to shell out $11+tax for a quart of gloss because I only need maybe 3 oz of it. Can I simply not stir the Satin before use?? Would this leave the flatteners at the bottom of the can and pure poly at the top?

I will be applying with a thinner soaked rag... yup, I'm dipping a thinner soaked rag right into the can, because that's how I roll. :D

Thanks.
 
If it's been sitting awhile, that should do what you want...give you gloss varnish. However, you method of application may make the balance of the can gum up earlier than it might have otherwise. If you dip out the amount you need and put in a separate container for use (do not put the leftover back in to the can, either), sealing the can back up you may get a few extra months (or something ) to use the balance up...and BTW, the balance may be more flat (less sheen) than you want.
 
I seriously doubt it. The Satin sheen is created with an additive. You might get some gloss of it by buffing it with very fine compound but it won't look like gloss.

Jack
 
Fred got it right. I am using up my stock of satin and semi-gloss finishes by decanting them to eliminate the flattening agents that settle at the bottom. I find I can get a better satin by spraying gloss and using abrasives rather than the grunge in the can.
 
...I find I can get a better satin by spraying gloss and using abrasives rather than the grunge in the can.

Yeah, al little buffing with maroon or grey Scotchbrite (after a few days curing) gives a nice non-gloss finish, and it's not cloudy like it can be if you'd used multiple coats of flattening agents.
 
Yeah, al little buffing with maroon or grey Scotchbrite (after a few days curing) gives a nice non-gloss finish, and it's not cloudy like it can be if you'd used multiple coats of flattening agents.

Another approach that I use is spraying several coats of clear gloss, then one final top coat of satin. Clear gloss provides the depth; satin or semi-gloss gives the final appearance desired.
 
Another approach that I use is spraying several coats of clear gloss, then one final top coat of satin. Clear gloss provides the depth; satin or semi-gloss gives the final appearance desired.

Yeah, but then you still need to have both kinds on hand. All gloss, then knocking it down with Scotchbrite or steel wool requires only having one type of finish on hand.

I've pretty much given up on using anything but gloss. I also seldom use anything but waterborne, now, too. The main exception to that is shellac. I do use a lot of that, too. BTW, shellac can also be 'de-glossed' using steel wool or Scotchbrite.
 
I guess I should update this thread.

So, it worked, sorta. Did I get a sharp, gloss finish? No. But the reflections are much more crisp than the stirred satin. I'd say this is a little glossier than a semi-gloss. So I called it a win. I'll try to get a shot of the project the next time I'm at the restaurant it ended up at. Simple shelf unit, but has some really nice ambrosia maple in it.

I'm with Jim, though.... although I really like the amber tone oil-based poly gives to lighter colored woods, I am just so sick of cleanup. Sick of mineral spirits, sick of paper towels, sick of not knowing it's actually clean so I rinse it "one more time" and then the brush is still a little stiff by the ferrule the next morning.
 
Some of the water based finishes have the amber tone that you get from solvent based finishes. Or there is a trans-tint dye (#6000, amber additive) specifically to re-add the amber to the clear finishes.

When I recover the satin and semi-gloss finishes, I let them settle a long time, then decant carefully. I mark the finishes as decanted, but so far have not been able to tell from the pure gloss. (I am finishing up the last gallon of decanted finish). I suspect yours had not settled enough if you have a semi semi gloss.

Be sure to use synthetic steel wool (i.e. abrasive pads) if you are using water based finishes. Theoretically little flecks of steel can embed themselves in the finish and rust.
 
Yeah, but then you still need to have both kinds on hand. All gloss, then knocking it down with Scotchbrite or steel wool requires only having one type of finish on hand.

I've pretty much given up on using anything but gloss. I also seldom use anything but waterborne, now, too. The main exception to that is shellac. I do use a lot of that, too. BTW, shellac can also be 'de-glossed' using steel wool or Scotchbrite.

For small projects, I do as you do using all gloss finish - then rub out to the sheen I want. On large projects - bed, dresser, chest - I do a final coat of semi-gloss or satin to keep from having to rub out; call me lazy!
 
I guess I should update this thread.

So, it worked, sorta. Did I get a sharp, gloss finish? No. But the reflections are much more crisp than the stirred satin. I'd say this is a little glossier than a semi-gloss. So I called it a win. I'll try to get a shot of the project the next time I'm at the restaurant it ended up at. Simple shelf unit, but has some really nice ambrosia maple in it.

I'm with Jim, though.... although I really like the amber tone oil-based poly gives to lighter colored woods, I am just so sick of cleanup. Sick of mineral spirits, sick of paper towels, sick of not knowing it's actually clean so I rinse it "one more time" and then the brush is still a little stiff by the ferrule the next morning.

I've stopped cleaning brushes altogether... I buy the packages of little 1 inch foam brushes and toss after I've used it... I usually smear the poly on pretty thick and then wipe it back with a paper towel to clean up any runs.
 
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