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Thread: Steve didnt answer his phone!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    17,233

    Steve didnt answer his phone!

    so i will ask my question here, on a ten ft high sidewall, considering our climate and todays new improved insulation, whats your prefernce on 2x4 stud wall vrs 2x6?
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  2. #2
    Larry.....I prefer 2/6 and that's what I used in my shop.

  3. #3
    Steve Clardy Guest
    2x6 costs a little more.
    Provides for a better R factor on insulation.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin Dells, WI
    Posts
    484
    I concur with the exceptional astuteness of those who have posted before me.

    2x6 is a little more up front, but with the added insulation factor, that cost will be made up in a few short years in heating and cooling.

    Karl

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Delton, Michigan
    Posts
    17,233
    yeah i can see the heating factor but i dont have a/c but i quess if you look at the dollars its gonna be about $400 which with todays heating costs it wouldnt take to long to recoup and i am only doing it once.. reason i thought on 2x4 is that friend just built a large garge and used 2x4 i called him but he didnt answer his phone either,, maybe i need a bath
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    West Central Ohio
    Posts
    147
    No Larry, you need a lathe to let you mind at ease
    Chuck

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    470
    Larry, have you priced a pole building? When I was looking at building a shop, I couldn't touch a conventional building for the price of a pole building. The extra cost of materials for finishing the inside of the pole building was small compared to the amount of concrete required for 42" footings on a 32x24x10 building.

    Of course the ultimate would be SIPS. Or is that $IP$?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,434
    When did you call? My cell must not be working, but we were gone all day Saturday and part day Sunday.

    Here is my take and it is up to you to figure $$ & cents cost comparison.

    You can use a 2x6 stud with osb sheething and get close to a R-22 in your walls. You can get high density batts that are R-21 and pick up close to ! on the o.s.b.

    Or you can use 2x4, then osb followed by tuff-r insulation board. and be close to R-19. High density batts are R-13 pick up close to R-1 on the osb and tuff-r insulation board I think is around 4-5.

    I have built houses using both systems Larry. My dad's house is 2x6 with o.s.b and it heats real well in the winter.....I'm thinking by the time you fart around with the Tuff-R board and with that cost, your 2x6 stud construction will serve you well.

    Some clients don't want the extra wide extension jambs you need for windows and doors when I build for them using the 2x6 and they prefer the 2x4 method instead.

    Different strokes for different folks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    810
    Here's a twist for you Larry ... One of the most energy efficient houses I lived in was in Iroquois Falls in Northern Ontario. It was built in 1916 and the design was this :

    • 2x6 sill and plate
    • 2x4 studs on 16" centres, staggered inside and out so that no stud ever touched another and no outside stud touched an inside wall
    • sawdust insulation
    • 1" cedar board inside covered with lathe and plaster
    • 1" cedar board outside covered with tin.

    This house was very cheap to heat and I can only imagine how cheap it would have been with fiberglass instead of sagging sawdust!! The reason it was so good was the continuous air space through the walls

    cheers

  10. #10
    Larry.....the reason Steve didn't answer his phone.....He has caller id......

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