Tormek sharpening system

...The question remains (since we got sidetracked a bit into the spinny world) - would it be a good choice for carving tools?

Aside from the jigs, I'm not sure the Tormek would be any better than something like the diamond plates (basically flat CBN "wheels", lol) that Charlie mentioned. I'd think the right diamond plates would leave a finer edge on the tools.
 
This is what I would call a great exchange of opinions, I appreciate the comment from Ryan to redirect the question to whether would it be good for carving gouges. Obviously when used for turning tools which are mostly made out of HSS steel which is much harder than carving gouges one, I have a couple of HSS spokeshaves from Harris tools that are almost impossible to sharpen on water stones.

At the same it seems to me ( in my ignorance) that many turners just go to the wood directly from the grinder which is not what we do in carving where we need a razor sharp edge.

It seems from your comments which I appreciate a lot that most of you are happy with the Tormek for one reason or another, basically I have to make my mind up about whether I should make the investment on it while I'm ok with my present system or devote the money to other items or wood.
 
At the same it seems to me ( in my ignorance) that many turners just go to the wood directly from the grinder which is not what we do in carving where we need a razor sharp edge.

That is most definitely true. It makes some sense if you consider how many linear feet of wood and that cut quality is a (limited) function of sharpness and cut speed.

The reports of the Japanese stone on the tormek make me think it's in the 10k-13k grit equivalent which would be almost sharp enough.

The only stones I know of that are really faster/more cutting than the Japanese stones are the spyderco ceramic. I get almost the same edge quality off of the ultra fine as I get from my 13k Japanese, it's a bit grabbier right off of the stone, but within honing distance. Not all water stones are the same either, the distance between my Norton water stone and my sigma select stones is further than from the arkansas to the Norton.

The other question I have on using the tormek for carving tools is I've been generally putting more of a convex edge on them instead of a concave (hollow ground) edge to keep the blade strength up as a lot of them are quite fine and don't have a lot of steel to support the edge compared to bench or lathe chisels. Not very convex, but slightly. I suppose you can mostly do that free hand but that seems to remove some of the advantages of the system.

I'm trying really hard to talk myself out of wanting one of these ;)
 
The more I think about it, I suspect the standard Tormek stone is too coarse for fine carving tools. The Japanese waterstone wheel might be a better fit, but I'm not sure it would be better than the oilstones you're already using, Toni. Especially when you consider the cost of the machine + jigs + a new stone.
 
The more I think about it, I suspect the standard Tormek stone is too coarse for fine carving tools. The Japanese waterstone wheel might be a better fit, but I'm not sure it would be better than the oilstones you're already using, Toni. Especially when you consider the cost of the machine + jigs + a new stone.

Vaughn is probably correct in his suspicion. Also, the Tormek and jigs can easily escalate price-wise in to hundreds, if not a thousand, dollar investment. Not sure it's be worth it to you - especially since you're already so proficient at hand sharpening.

I love my Tormek, but I don't do the kind (or quality) of work that you do.
 
.... cannot be left with water in the reservoir since that only covers a portion of the wheel.
...

My "never leave it wet" is based on a presentation from the touring Tormek rep at our Woodcraft.

Regarding the partially wet stone: I used to routinely leave water in my pan (thus soaking only about 1/4 of the wheel). I pretty much never emptied it, and in the dry SoCal climate, I had to add water every day that I used it, and sometime multiple times. If the trough was dry, I'd fill it, turn on the motor, let it run for 30 seconds or so, add water to replenish what had soaked into the wheel, and then start sharpening. ...

I suspect that used daily Vaughan's technique becomes a legitimate exception to the rule, especially since he only has to add a little water to get going. With a dry stone, I have to add over 3 quarts of water until it stops soaking up, which is why the large startup time. If a whole stone takes 3 quarts, and I left the bottom 1/4 in water over the long term, while the other 3/4 of the stone dried, it would sure be uneven

(My measure of water is that I keep two 2 quart plastic jars filled with water next to the Tormek, and it uses most of it until the rate of soaking goes down.)
 
...With a dry stone, I have to add over 3 quarts of water until it stops soaking up, which is why the large startup time. If a whole stone takes 3 quarts, and I left the bottom 1/4 in water over the long term, while the other 3/4 of the stone dried, it would sure be uneven

(My measure of water is that I keep two 2 quart plastic jars filled with water next to the Tormek, and it uses most of it until the rate of soaking goes down.)

I don't remember mine ever taking that much, even when bone dry. (I kept a gallon milk jug full of water next to mine.) Now I'm curious. I'll dig my Tormek out of storage when I get a chance and see what it does.
 
From a dry stone, mine will completely absorb about a pint of water, but it takes another 2 pints+ to fill the reservoir. So...about three pints+, in all.

Mine is located right next to the shop sink, and I use a 2 cup measuring cup to fill it from the faucet.
 
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