Nice paint job on the fence! That looks really fantastic, and great color choice as well.
Electrolysis will remove rust other techniques fail at... If you don't need to or can't take it all the way apart (there may be other reasons to do so like re-shimming or adjusting various bits) other techniques may be worth exploring.
You can get a pretty good result by soaking rags in evaporust and laying them on the surface then wrapping in plastic and letting it set over night followed by abrasion on the surface. The main problem with evaporust is that it leaves a black iron oxide layer that is difficult to remove entirely (especially if there is minor pitting it tends to stay black/gray in those areas). The upside is that the black oxide actually helps protect against future rust. If you go this route you'll probably need to degrease the surface some in order for the evaporust to get in there. You'll still want to sand the surface back, a linear sanding block (like from automotive shops) is nice for large flat surfaces like this, don't be afraid to go a grit or two coarser, say 220, 320/400, 600, 1000 would be a somewhat reasonable progression.
There are also some other straight abrasive tools like the rust erasers:
http://www.garrettwade.com/wonderbar-rust-eraser-gp.html or
http://www.leevalley.com/US/garden/page.aspx?p=10509&cat=2,42194,40727 (free shipping is on
) that would work a bit better than straight sandpaper. I would be slightly hesitant to use those on your jointer tables though in fear of increasing the wear substantially because flat matters there. They do remove rust a lot better than just a scotchbrite pad though (the local orange borg store had something like these although I haven't tried them from there yet.
I've also had pretty good luck with citric acid (you can buy 10lb bags on ebay quite cheaply say $15+sh which is enough for a LOT of rust removal). It doesn't seem to get into the pits quite as well as evaporust, won't "unstick" frozen parts like electrolysis, and tends to eat a bit more surface metal than either of those techniques (minimal but measurable). It also has no rust inhibiting properties like evaporust so things pulled out of it need to be treated asap or you get flash rust on the surface really quickly. With that all kept in mind its still a pretty effective way to remove some stubborn rust without having to setup the electrolysis tank or spend the extra $$$'s on evaporust. My technique is to add a small amount (say 1-2oz per 20g) and see if bubbles are forming after 5-10 minutes, if not then dissolve another oz in a bit of water and stir it in. The chemistry depends a little bit on what you're derusting and your local water chemistry, and an excess of acidity increases the base metal removal rate so sneaking up on it isn't a bad idea (and uses less of the acid so that's also nice).
Personally in this case I'd either go with electrolysis or the evaporust followed by a linear sanding block to polish the surface. I wouldn't be super worried about a bit of pitting unless it was functionally a problem which would have to be pretty bad (yours doesn't look that bad imho). If there is a fair bit of minor pitting, treating with something like evaporust or some other rust inhibitor to stop future rust in the pits would be a good idea.