does anyone own and use a jwpm-13cs jet planer molder combo?

anyone have any opinions of this machine vs, the dewalt 735?

Id like to get a planer that can make some molding also, and this is one I see runs on standard 110 lines(no 220 in shop)

any thoughts or opinions?

I have a DeWalt 735x and it's a great planer, but that's what it is. If you want a planer/molder, then that ain't it.

I have an older version and would not recommend it. I experience a lot of vibration due to how the motor is attached to the thin metal stand and the difficulty to align the motor properly with the pulleys. I have read some reviews that have had the same experience. It is possible that this version overcomes my issue, but I just don't like the design. I must confess that I have never used it as a molder.

I still feel the need for a thickness planer and will either get some old American or Canadian iron or Mini Max Jointer/Planer. Considering where you live, getting an old American planer would be easier and cheaper than it is for me. A Powermatic 180 planer would be sweet!

thanx for the info bill, Im only in the looking around options phase.

I don't have 220 power, so electric supply is always my problem.

Im not mechanically inclined and don't do well with machines that present problems or headaches. I need strong, easy working simple machines.

Ill keep looking.

I found a local lumber yard that sells custom moldings in all shapes, sizes and species.

for a piece of cherry crown molding for a unit, I wouldn't mind paying 4.50 a foot for 4 feet, but Id like to do moldings for some windows, base for rooms, etc.....

I have one other option.

My son has 220 power in his home. I can place a molder in his garage, make enough space whenever I need to use it, but it would be rather inconvenient to have to travel an hour each way if I fall short one piece.

I have the jet pm. I have never used the planer blades. As a molder, the standard 3.5 inch wide oak window casing runs well. I have custom blades to run a nice 2 piece 7 inch tall baseboard in cherry. People say to do it in one pass but I never do in hard wood. I also made blades to d shape 2 sides on a pine 4x4 and built a log camper cabin. 2400 feet of cutting on 16 footers. As a planer it would not compare to a grizzly 15 inch but would do for small stuff like for bird houses or crafts. On rough sawmill lumber the grizzly 15 or similar floor model is the minimum I would recommend.

Sorry, I missed this thread Allen. I used to have the older Grizzly 13" planer/molder combo that is similar to this one http://www.grizzly.com/products/13-Planer-Moulder/G1037Z

They look to be of the same design with a few refinements of the Jet version. As a planer, it was an excellent machine. You could change the speed from full speed to a lower feed speed for almost glass like cuts. The slower speed was meant for the molding blades, but I almost always used it at that feed rate.

Now I only used the molding blades once and that time the Grizzly came with very poor instructions. I tried running a 1 x 4 piece of pine through it and ended up with broken molding blades across the shop. One piece embedded in a piece of 22 gauge sheet metal 20' away. I followed the instructions, but the blades stacked on top of the planer blades in the center and they stuck out about 3/8" past those blades. I tried running the board through, but it wasn't grabbing and pulling through, so I raised the table to where the rollers would pull the wood through. A few seconds later I realized something was terribly wrong and that the molding blades were attempting to take off about 1/4" of material at once, which ended in 3 shattered molding blades and pieces of those rattling around inside the machine dinging up my planer blades. I never used it as a molder again.

All I could figure is that the rollers should have been lowered to do simple light passes working my way up to full depth, but the instructions didn't say to do so and trying to do them without would result in a bad kickback.