And the Katahdin begins

1228443b6ad4a3609b9ee29fcd25147c.jpg

From in the basement also a 2 car garage


Is that post going to stay, or will it come out?

Would not want anyone backing into that post.... something I'd do :doh:
 
That may be replaced with a lally column. We are thinking the wall that is going there is more than sufficient to carry the load that a lolly is not needed.
 
That may be replaced with a lally column. We are thinking the wall that is going there is more than sufficient to carry the load that a lolly is not needed.

Dad always put the lally columns in anyway. I remember him arguing with a home owner over it once as they though it was a waste of money to do both. His point was they probably wouldn't be the the last owners of the house and that people see a wall and think it's just for partition, if the column is there they know it's for support. That and it's adjustable if they ever need to use it for that purpose, which you always hope that isn't the case.
 
We have always put them in and wounded why waste the money when you are just building a wall also. If the next owners take down the wall then its on them to replace the wall with proper support.
 
27d5773c82127adb6a8a226ae6c95b2d.jpg

A basement full of logs
98a262bf8bffa14f8c406b5f2aeb7e83.jpg

All of these 3/8" x 8" lags to hold the logs together.
2c982dee60cca46d4e8a76b04e5ad619.jpg

The caulking and weather strip for between the logs
 
Last edited:
046e0a754b389ee282854b4c0f72ac82.jpg

That is log A 8 every log has a number. This is also where the log wall to the porch lands so I have to notch A8 for A 28 to attach.
3983469d506ec95e0fcfa0975914ab9f.jpg

every joint between logs has this notch cut in it. After the logs are bolted down you drive a spline in here to A seal the joint B hold the logs in plane better. This log is actually at the door so the spline goes from the log to the door buck.
cb5d98f892651456d51cfd9dd3e563a1.jpg

A shot of the first row all laid out
fefe64898734196091618e2ca6b4bccc.jpg

Here is how the bypass corner works. You can see the holes for the lags all drilled at the factory. 4 per log on the most part.
2caf93d0b0b9762b53996200167e04ba.jpg

Here is that wall between the house and porch.
 
Last edited:
All of the electral has been laid out for the outside walls. most of the outlets need to be drilled 3 logs up the switches around 9 logs up. Outside lights by the doors around 10 rows up. And the outlets in the second floor 21 rows up.
 
If you look at the delivery photo you can see a long package on the top. It is a package of v-match and there is another one right beside it. They where picked up today by Foster's painting to be per pollied.http://www.fosterspainting.com/ This is a photo from his website. We built that room some time back.
 

Attachments

  • slider6.jpg
    slider6.jpg
    34.5 KB · Views: 46
Last edited:
So figuring r 1.4 per inch and ?10"? (eyeballing that so could be way off) logs you're not getting great insulative value there. Am I missing the ball here somehow?

The butted corner joints are interesting. Somewhat more reminiscent of some post construction types than what I normally think of as log building.

Will certainly be interesting to watch this go up, thanks for sharing the details here!
 
Logs are a 6 X 6 so they really measure 5.5" square. So if I use your 1.4 per inch I get an R value of 7.7 Not even close to the R 19 code says it has to be. But log cabins are exempt for that in NH.
 
Ouch, yeah that's even worse than I was figuring. I thought they might be a fair bit wider than they are tall. I hope the new owner has a good heating fuel budget.

Most of the log construction I've seen was 16"-26"+ which even figuring a lower r value for pine or Fir is a while lot better than this setup. Looks pretty though :D
 
That's the style of log my sister's place is, except they are oak. I want to say her's are about 7" or 8" square. They primarily use the wood stove to heat the main area of the house, but furnace circulates air for the rest and heats the bedrooms, stays comfortable, but don't get the cold you probably do.
 
Well that low a R value kills the idea for me. Dead in the water. No point having a log home, then putting up studs and drywall inside to get the R value up. I am not one of these people that care much about kerb appeal. I dont live outside the home i live inside it and especially in winter. So having nice log finish outside meh whats the point if the inside has to be insulated somehow.

Chuck thanks a ton for taking pics and taking us along with the build really appreciate it.

Would really like to see how the weather stripping is put between logs when next layer comes down.

So how many logs are involved? I guess part of what drives the whole size of logs issue is the size of trees and the finished log they having to mill. I guess next we will see "manufactured" logs made from sticks like some of the so called pine shelving boards we see at the HD. Poor trees cannot grow fast enough for our consumption. lol

So given the lag holes are pre drilled are the holes for the electrics wire done and only box holes need to be drilled and cut or do you have to do the whole electric job. Sorry was not clear to me. If you got to drill in each layer in the same place for the wire to go up, oh what a pain. I guess pre drilling lag bolt holes is one thing, they just intended to go into next layer i guess, so they have no idea where you putting the electrics i suspect so i guess i answered my own question. DUH Rob!

Thanks again Chuck. Enjoy the work i guess by now on a normal build you would have been putting on the roof already.
 
8e76f744f21a13e0c7fbe49f6dc13d0d.jpg

A pile of door and window bucks.
4fcbc7f478432ec4c491d1b6ce237e53.jpg

Here is the spline between the door buck and log.
24390cdf30a41fcb2d39e4a46d4ecb1c.jpg

First door buck up.
e198896e03544360bbcb960bc1b86b63.jpg

All the doors up and the temp bracing up and plumed.
c31b28c5881b463fe94825fc98e13a27.jpg

Second row of logs going on. Black weather stripping on the tongue and a bead of caulking next to it on the weather side. You can just make out an orange mark on the floor in this pic. That is marking one of the holes for wiring.
 
Last edited:
https://vimeo.com/147908815
I shot a short video of the well pounder. It is short because you don't need long to see what happens all day. And today he drilled a whopping 11 feet in just about 7 hours of drilling.
 
Last edited:
Top