Faith, Hope & Charity
Once everyone has agreed that the size and general shape are pretty good it's time for production mode.
So we dig up some English walnut
And a few chunks of curly maple
Rough cut to length and plane to a smidge over 1/2".
I've offset the handles just over the centerline so the handle from one board is next to the handle for its partner. This goes with the natural edge theory but also means I don't waste as much extra wood there.
The maple pieces are about 11" across and 14" long (not counting the handle) the walnut is about 9"x12"
Much tedious pattern routing to clean up the handle shape, a pass with a round over bit on the edges to get a semi consistent rounding; then several trips through the drum sander and a couple passes with the ROS plus a whole lot of hand sanding on the edge and we're almost done..
Add a heavy coat of board butter, let set overnight then polish off and here we are.
I LIKE those Ryan
Very nice, Ryan!
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Hunter S. Thompson
When the weird get going, they start their own forum. - Vaughn McMillan
Beauties, Ryan. Board butter being mineral oil/paraffin mix?
For the board butter I used beeswax and carnuba:
- 3 parts beeswax
- 1 part carnuba
- 16 parts mineral oil
heat in a mason jar in a pot or water until dissolved.
Most of the mixes seem to be 1 part (some sort of) wax and to 4 parts mineral oil.
I have no idea if the carnuba will help the longevity at all, but it was reasonably cheap experiment to try. It seems to have glossed up a little better than some of the plain beeswax mixes I've seen in the past. Brent said he just used beeswax and mineral oil and talked me out of using paraffin as the beeswax seems perhaps a bit harder? I thought about using a semi-drying oil instead of mineral oil, but punted and just went with more or less what the majority of folks are doing (I suspect that the wax would slow the drying down to irrelevant anyway.. but it would be interesting to do some experiments).
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Ryan where do you get the carnuba and beeswax. Are the food grade? Use just plain mineral oil on my boards.
Nominally yes they are food grade, if you can believe the sellers..
The wax mix seemed to make it a bit easier to keep the gloss up, not sure how much difference it will make in the long run. I've used boos block oil before as well which is basically the same idea but a much lower wax level (maybe 1:16 or so) and it seemed marginally better than just plain oil (someone gave me a bottle quite a few years back, I've slathered it on a few cutting boards just because we had it). This is my first foray with the denser mix so we'll see how it goes.