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Thread: Problem & ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Problem & ?

    Here You see a picture of the little Disston saw I got for $5.

    I don't think this is the original handle, as you can see I have used a Sharpie pen to show where the holes in the handle align when it is positioned properly. You can also see the saw nut that had the logo on it.

    Now I need some help here as to what to do. It doesn't look like there is enough space between the old holes & where the new holes need to be drilled. So what to do?

    Another thought is I do have the pattern for the open style handle. So what to do?

    Also where can I get new saw nuts?


    When this gets repaired I send this saw off as well as the other 3 saws to get sharpened.
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

  2. #2
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    Odessa, Tx
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    Bart, from this view, I can't see how the handle is "Notched, but it "Appears" that the top of the bevels on the front of the handle is supposed to align with the top of the "HARDBACK" and not the top of the blade itself. If this "IS" correct, then the holes appear to be in the right place. another indication that this handle has been in that location for a long time is the very faint rust line showing the curve of the handle. Other than those observations, I don't have a clue.

  3. #3
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    Norman

    Quote Originally Posted by Norman Hitt View Post
    Bart, from this view, I can't see how the handle is "Notched, but it "Appears" that the top of the bevels on the front of the handle is supposed to align with the top of the "HARDBACK" and not the top of the blade itself. If this "IS" correct, then the holes appear to be in the right place. another indication that this handle has been in that location for a long time is the very faint rust line showing the curve of the handle. Other than those observations, I don't have a clue.
    Norman

    The strong back will be just proud of the handle if I just slid it on, but if I push it around a bit so the holes in the blade line up with the holes in the handle it pushes the strong back up so it runs at a angle high at the back of the blade & low at the front.
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

  4. #4
    Steve Clardy Guest
    Bart. Maybe send it to Mike and He can make you a new blade.

    Here's mine that He redid for me. Before pic. Can't find the after
    Last edited by Steve Clardy; 08-06-2008 at 06:13 PM.

  5. #5
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    Way to show off Mike's work Steve.

  6. #6
    Steve Clardy Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Way to show off Mike's work Steve.

    Lol. Well I retook a pic of my Sorby that Mike worked over for me.

    I still need to refinish the handle.
    Made a great saw. I do use it once in a while.
    Last edited by Steve Clardy; 08-06-2008 at 06:13 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Pa
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    Well I maybe all wet here, but it looks to me the bolts are just there
    to hold the blade from coming out of the handle and the thick metal
    on top of the blade is what actually takes the vertical downward stress
    when sawing.

    If this is indeed so, you should be able to just go ahead and re drill the blade
    to the holes in the handle, yes the holes in the blade will be elongated ,
    But there is plenty of meat on side of the holes in the blade to still hold the
    blade from coming out of the handle horizontally.

    Clear as mud?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
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    13
    Fill in the old holes with JB Weld? Then drill out the new holes?

    Weld or braze them? You could probably wire weld the holes and not mess up the temper on the saw, don't think I'd stick weld on it. I bet a spot welder would work great.

    -Mike

  9. #9
    Alan DuBoff is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart Leetch View Post
    Norman

    The strong back will be just proud of the handle if I just slid it on, but if I push it around a bit so the holes in the blade line up with the holes in the handle it pushes the strong back up so it runs at a angle high at the back of the blade & low at the front.
    This is all too common for the front to get smashed down, it needs to be brought up as well as the rear, so that your holes line up. I doubt that the handle is replaced, many saws are like this, but few take the time and/or know how to make it correct.

    Learn to sharpen your own saws, it will be time well spent, and you will not understand why you have waited so long to do so.

    Then again, some folks don't mind sending their saws out for sharpening, but I can't understand that...it would be like sending your plane irons, or chisels out for sharpening also, and most would laugh at the thought of that. Get yourself a $5 file and start by just touching up a saw and see how much nicer it cuts. I'm amazed at the fear in sharpening a saw though...you're not the only one.

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