is there a slow glue?

Frank Fusco

Member
Messages
12,782
Location
Mountain Home, Arkansas
What do y'all do when glueing up projects that take some time where the first sections glued might set before getting to the last sections? I normally use Elmer's Probond but am not married to it. Willing to try other things. BTW, I do use CA, epoxy or poly for small projects.
 
What do you mean by long open time? Titebone had a extended time as already stated, epoxy can have a long open time depending on portions.
 
TB Extend does give you a bit more open time and takes a bit longer in the clamps. I had to keep shaking my bottle to keep it well mixed. I don't know if this is characteristic of the glue as I've only gone through one bottle.
 
I use Original Titebond or Titebond II... I am as slow as they get. :( Never had one set up on me yet. Do these things before you start (I swear I'm gonna do it next time, promise :eek: ) Get your clamps ready and at hand, clean the old glue off and set the size near the size needed. Get your damp cloth ready , Glue brush and place to set it down between applications. Clean off the old gunk from the glue spout, Start with a near full applicator get your act together and practice a dry run befor you start. If you do these prep things you assembly will run smoother. (as I said, I promise to do this next time, or at least the time after....:eek: ) :thumb:

:D :rofl:
 
I recently used DAP Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue to glue up a large painted bookcase and really appreciated the longer open time compared to my usual TB original.

Another brand of plastic resin glue that you may want to check out is Unibond 800, which I believe is commonly used in veneering.

Another supposed benefit of plastic resin glue over PVA is the lack of glue creep. Again, thats just what I've read, I am new to PRG, but I like it so far.
 
I second the use of DAP's Plastic Resin Glue. It is a urea-formaldehyde one-part glue, meaning there is nothing to mix other than add water in the proportions recommended on the container.

Follow the instructions to the letter. AND note that it makes a difference if you mix using weights for the glue powder and the water, or whether you use volumes.

You will appreciate the urea-formaldehyde glues when you face a complicated glue-up, as with lots of dovetails, etc.


.
 
I'll third the recommendations for DAP Plastic Resin glue. Longer working time than any of the Titebond flavors I've tried, and no creep when it's done.
 
Vaughn, How's the clean up? Can you pare it offf with a chisel once it's 'gelled'? What if you miss a spot? I've never used it but it sounds like something I might want to try.
Thanks,

Glenn
 
Vaughn, How's the clean up? Can you pare it offf with a chisel once it's 'gelled'? What if you miss a spot? I've never used it but it sounds like something I might want to try.
Thanks,

Glenn
Plastic resin sets slowly so I usually let it sit in clamps overnight - so by the time I get back to it, it's hard. You can chip it off with an old chisel or sand it - don't use a good chisel because the glue will ruin the edge. It's best to clean up the glue line with water before it sets. Plastic resin was THE woodworking glue before PVA. It lost to PVA because you have to mix it. If you make too much (which you almost always do) you can't keep the excess - it hardens on you. And if you mix too little, you'll be scrambling in the middle of a glue-up to mix up some more. But it's not a very expensive glue. Very strong, hard, no creep, but not much gap strength. When you mix it, make sure you don't have any lumps.

Another glue which gives a very long open time is System 3 T-88 epoxy. You have about one hour of working time but you need to keep it in clamps for about 12 hours. It's more expensive than plastic resin but good to have when you need the time.

Mike
 
Plastic resin sets slowly so I usually let it sit in clamps overnight - so by the time I get back to it, it's hard. You can chip it off with an old chisel or sand it - don't use a good chisel because the glue will ruin the edge. It's best to clean up the glue line with water before it sets...
That pretty much sums up my experience with it. When fresh, I try to use a wet paper towel to clean up as much squeeze-out as possible, then once it's hard, I usually sand it down instead of using a chisel. It sands nicely...doesn't gum up the paper like some other glues do.
 
After all that crap I said about getting your act together before you glue.... Blah Blah Blah.... Well did not today I have 8 beadboard panel cabinet doors to glue-up.... Did get the rag and glue and brush and clamps all ago before I started but I didn't check all the slots and grooves and wasn't the first one I tried (didn't prefit) have a lump where the piece must have lifted as it passed the second time over the dado head. Just a little ridge that could have been chiseled out so easily had I been paying attention. "Crack" :( Blew out the side of the joint, My face is Red, :eek: I got pittence to pay for the choice words I inflicted upon my self and remembered the word I spake this morning and how I am so assamed of my foolish pride that declares my vast wisdom, yet I paractice not what I preach. :eek: Please forgive a foolish old man. But I did recover nicely and the task is complete and the rest of the day was success. Met herself at a nice resturant for dinner and tomorrow will be a better day as the sanding will commence...:wave:
 
Epoxy is my adhesive of choice for most anything, especially long open times. Add some microfibers to the consistancy of mayonaise if you want it to act more like convential glue while working with it, or if your joint isn't as tight as you want it to be. Epoxy can fill an 1/8" gap with serious strength. I've tried Unibond and it works well, too, but where Epoxy has the edge in my book, is it is much more versatile and it pretty much has unlimited shelf life and freeze/thaw cycles. I use polyurethane glue for quick stuff and joints where I'm not concerned about greater than normal strength. I can't remember the last time I used a "yellow" carpenters glue.
 
Another consideration when you need some extra time but, don't need over an hour is polyurethane glue. Of course the down side is the foaming residue but, when I use it I am very careful to not over do it when applying the glue. It is my favorite gule for turning projects especially gluing pen barrels.
 
Another consideration when you need some extra time but, don't need over an hour is polyurethane glue. Of course the down side is the foaming residue but, when I use it I am very careful to not over do it when applying the glue. It is my favorite gule for turning projects especially gluing pen barrels.

Thanks, Chris. But I dislike poly glues. Messy, messy. It is my least favorite for pens. And storage is problematic. Each to his own. :D
 
Top