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Thread: A Really Basic Sign.... Need Some Help...

  1. #1
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    A Really Basic Sign.... Need Some Help...

    OK the NPO I work for wants me to build a sign like this....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ... or at least something similar.

    I know I cannot fit that whole thing into my iCarver, the bed is 15" x 20" but I could make three 15x20 pieces to make up the whole sign.

    Now what is the best thing to make this kind sign?

    A V-carve bit?

    What software?

    I have ArtCam.


    I figure that you paint the whole board first, let it dry and then put some sort of painters tape over the surface, carve through that, then paint the carved surface with the second color, does that sound right?

    I figure that I would use a sanding sealer first to seal the carved wood then paint it the second color to stop any bleed.

    Oh yeah I have to have this done by the 2nd of June....

    Ideas....?

    Suggestions...?


    HELP!!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  2. #2
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    No idea on the power carving (Leo? Help ) but on a test of a half dozen or so sealers the best I found for preventing bleed was a polycrylic. It seemed to stop wicking a lot more effectively than shellac even. That was with an oil based enamel paint on top and slightly punky wood both of which were annoying about bleed.
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

  3. #3
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    I have routered some signs and spray painted a coat of paint over the entire sign, then painted the routered letters, belt sanded the top of the sign, blew off with air and poly urethaned the sign. ????

    I make FFA Officer name boards, I stain the entire thing after routering their name on the board. Then I paint their name in black gloss paint with a brush. Don't know if this helps or not.
    Jon

    God and family, the rest is icing on the cake. I'm so far behind, I think I'm in first place!

    Host of the 2015 FAMILY WOODWORKING GATHERING

  4. #4
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    I know this is not what you are looking for but most signs today like that are printed on a uv proof vinyl and then the vinyl is the stuck onto a piece of very smooth plywood or even alum.

    I don't know if there are any sign shops around that do vinyl printing, here there all over the place. I used to work for one.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  5. #5
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    I haven't used artcam, but I'm sure it does the vcarve or pocketing operations. Will depend on the fonts you use if you either do an end mill or a vbit. Process for finishing for me would be as you described. I use the avery paint mask, but masking tape or contact paper would work as well if you can't get paint mask. For some surfaces I've had to wax the first coat of paint before applying the mask to keep the mask from peeling away the first coat of paint, so may have to experiment a little with that.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  6. #6
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    thanks for the info guys!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  7. #7
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    First off, make sure that all the stuff you are using is good stuff for EXTERIOR. Shellac, poly - not good.

    You can use wood, but make sure its a good exterior wood. You "could" use a good exterior plywood or a marine plywood.

    Use a GOOD exterior primer, 3 heavy coats. Then paint the yellow with a good exterior paint - 3 coats, then mask, "V" groove, Primer, by brush, then color. Remove the mask and scrape the edges of the text, and light sanding. There should be a thick enough coat of yellow that you will not break through. You "could" use a foam roller with the yellow to go over the top with a light coat.

    There are several ways I have read about sign makers doing it, but this seems somewhat common. What is standard is the heavy coating of primer and the 3 coats of color, and good sign makers do not use cheap paints.

    I don't know if the Artcam has tiling capability, but you could cut the sign into sections that fit on you machine and use the tiling function, then reassemble the sign on a new base.

    If you really want to dress it up a border around the edges would look good. To get really anal a roof is always a nice added touch. Roof does not need to be like a real roof, just a little fancy on the top border - make it a little bigger, and with some detail, something like crown molding.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Voisine View Post
    First off, make sure that all the stuff you are using is good stuff for EXTERIOR. Shellac, poly - not good.

    You can use wood, but make sure its a good exterior wood. You "could" use a good exterior plywood or a marine plywood.

    Use a GOOD exterior primer, 3 heavy coats. Then paint the yellow with a good exterior paint - 3 coats, then mask, "V" groove, Primer, by brush, then color. Remove the mask and scrape the edges of the text, and light sanding. There should be a thick enough coat of yellow that you will not break through. You "could" use a foam roller with the yellow to go over the top with a light coat.

    There are several ways I have read about sign makers doing it, but this seems somewhat common. What is standard is the heavy coating of primer and the 3 coats of color, and good sign makers do not use cheap paints.

    I don't know if the Artcam has tiling capability, but you could cut the sign into sections that fit on you machine and use the tiling function, then reassemble the sign on a new base.

    If you really want to dress it up a border around the edges would look good. To get really anal a roof is always a nice added touch. Roof does not need to be like a real roof, just a little fancy on the top border - make it a little bigger, and with some detail, something like crown molding.
    Thanks Leo all good info.

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  9. #9
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    Doesn't that sign have to be in Japanese?
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Plesums View Post
    Doesn't that sign have to be in Japanese?
    Yes, that was just an English example.
    Domo
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

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