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Thread: Never Worked Construction - Drywall or T1-11?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!

    Never Worked Construction - Drywall or T1-11?

    This will be soooo obvious to some of you. I'm in Southern California. I have an outer garage wall. Stucco outside, exposed studs inside. Most of the interior wall surface is insulated and drywalled. The exposed 7' x 12' area I would like to cover. Would you insulate and use drywall? Vapor barrier and T1-11 or like siding? Any suggestion will be superior to my most educated guess.

    I will be putting French cleats on the wall and hanging pegboard panels, small cabinets or whatever as the shop evolves. I will also be installing some outlets to serve that area of the shop. This will also probably be the main area where my workbench stands; normally close enough to the wall to reach over and access the items hung on the pegboard.

    I should mention that I plan to paint most of the shop interior a semi-gloss white unless you all have other advice on color and finish.

    Last edited by glenn bradley; 05-09-2007 at 03:43 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Either will work, drywall isn't as cheap as a lot of siding though, and takes more work to finish. If there is both a moisture source and climate control in the garage then a vapor barrier is a good idea, otherwise don't bother. Most garages breath pretty good anyway.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    glen, 7x12 is a small area so you could even use a nice grade of plywood and make a "pretty" wall. i`d skip drywall or any masonite type product since you want to hang stuff from the wall, and i too would skip the separate vapor barrier and use kraft faced insulation behind your sheeting....tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Depends on the look you are after. T1-11 seems kinda rough for interior walls. I'd go with Tod's suggestion on ply. If you are going to paint it, a 'sanded ply' would be good enuf.

    Since you are '60 miles EAST of Joshua Tree' (where anything over 25% is considered HIGH humidity!), I don't think you have any vapor to barrier.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    No, not all of SoCal is Los Angeles!
    Thanks everybody. I'm all for skipping the drywall.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Delton, Michigan

    i vote to veneer it:)

    that way it would really look sharp and you could look at the pretty grain everyday you were in there.. seriously i would go for vapor barrier either and in mine am going with raw osb fer now unless someone tells me a good reason for being differnt
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  7. #7
    *IF* you are someplace that might care, you should check what code is. If it's a detached garage, it's likely not to matter but if it is an attached garage, you might have code issues if there isn't some drywall involved. I know code where I am required me to have drywall from floor to ceiling on my attached garage despite the fact that I wanted to do otherwise.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    southwestern Pennsylvania

    Interior wall covering

    Used T1-11 for the interior walls of the gift shop, so that Katy can put nails into it anywhere she pleases - to hang "stuff."
    It's 5/8 inch thick and works out well for hanging "stuff."
    It is rustic in appearance.
    Boy! has she got "stuff."

  9. #9
    Glenn....I'm still finishing my shop. Some of the inmates here and at another site decided I needed to learn to turn wood and lathed me. I can tell you from experience....I have 1/2 plywood on the walls and 5/8" sheetrock on the ceiling. If the ceiling was done with shop would be finished. I wished I'd taken Frank's advice and put plywood there too!

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