Boating On the Cheap

Dan Gonzales

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511
Location
Whittier, CA, USA
I found a 15' Gregor for $80, an Evinrude 25 hp for $150 and the trailer for $100. I know how to take care of the metal work but need some pointers on what to check out on the outboard. I'm a good shade tree mechanic, just don't know the particulars of outboards.

Thanks in advance for any pointers.

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If it has sat up for a while you'll need to remove the spark plugs and spray the cylinders with oil and rotate the engine by hand a few times and replace the plugs with new ones.Then you'll need to remove the gear case and install a new water pump and while it's off is a good time to change the gear oil.To remove the gear case you'll need to remove the top and lower cover and see where the shift rod connects to the engine and disconnect it,make sure you do not turn the rod while it out. The gear case bolts are just above the prop,Being a shade tree mechanic,it'll take you a little while but you can do it.Enjoy your new expensive hobby.
 
The lower gearbox needs a special grease. There are two screw caps that need to be removed, one higher up than the other. Then the grease (a special very thick oil) gets forced in through the bottom hole until it comes out clean from the top hole. Some water will likely come out too. This needs to be done at least annually. If significant amounts of water come out, you will likely need new shaft seals and a bearing inspection/replacement.

There is a rubber impeller water pump in the top end of the lower unit that the blades eventually break off of. If not replaced in time the motor will overheat, leaving you in that remote fishing hole for a very long time. Replacing or inspecting it is a project usually left for a marine mechanic. In my experiences, it has been under a threaded cap in the top end of the lower unit. The lower unit needs to be unbolted and removed from the upper motor section. There will be a cap with a hole in the center for the long shaft that comes from the motor. The impeller pump will be under this cap, which requires a special spanner wrench to remove. Since it's aluminum and the housing is also aluminum, they frequently corrode together, requiring all kinds of work and special words to get the cap unscrewed.

For both of these projects, it's best to hire a marine mechanic for the repair work. Since you know very little about the history of this motor, it might also be best to have the marine mechanic go through the whole outboard motor top to bottom to check and fix whatever might be needed. They require a lot of special tools and skills to service properly, but the lubrication and water pump are the two items that are most likely needing attention.

If you decide to paint the lower unit, be sure not to get paint on the anodes. These are zinc alloy pieces that are attached to the lower unit to prevent electrical charges in the water from corroding the lower unit. These will very gradually be eaten by these electrical charges instead of the aluminum of the lower unit. If they are covered with paint they will not work. They may eventually need to be replaced if the outboard is left in the water, but will likely last the life of the motor if the motor is removed from the water after each use. Just remember not to paint or remove them, as they are very important.

Boats can be a lot of fun, but the maintenance is costly for the amount of use you will get out of it. I've owned boats up to 26', with inboard, inboard/outboard, and outboard power. I have a 21' Sea Ray cabin cruiser with a Chevy 350 I/O drive sitting in my driveway. There is a sign on the wall inside the cabin that reads "A boat is a hole, surrounded by water, into which you pour money", and it's a very true statement, no matter what size boat you have.



Charley
 
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Congrats on the deal Dan. No help from me on the motor, but for the price you paid for it, were i in your shoes, i would pull it apart and use fixing it as a learning curve. Whats the worst that can happen? , you have to get another used motor.

What i have seen done is guys make a plan and mount them over a 44 gallon drum of water when testing. Before pulling apart why not just try running it , assuming you check the fluids first and that the engine is not seized.

Just be careful of that flywheel under the cover on the top, had a friend way back in time that seriously messed up his hand on that.
 
That's going to be a great project.

I've done a bunch of boat maintenance and work on outboards, but would not call myself a pro by any means.

I did have to replace the crank shaft on a little 4 horse, due to it being dunked in the water while running.
 
You got a good deal on that. I know nothing about motors except what others have said. Best to take motor to a marine mechanic with a good reputation and get it checked over. On used boats do check the transom. If it is rotted do replace. Not good to have the back end of the boat fall off while you are in the middle of a lake. :eek: It is an inexpensive thing to replace but critical.
 
I don't believe there is such a thing as "cheap boating".... I had a fellow give me a boat once.. it was a 16' Glastron with an 85 HP Johnson motor on a trailer... by the time I put a new floor, new carpet, new seats, new power pack, new tires on the trailor, re-worked the steering cable, put a new battery in, a new sheer pin in the propeller, registered the boat trailor with DMV, licensed the boat with the state (don't remember the dept.) and generally re-habbed everything else, I figure I had about $1500-$2000 in the boat and probably only used it about 5 times before the power pack burned out again.... it's been said that the two happiest days a man has is the day he got his new boat, and the day he sold it. For me, they are a hole in the water to throw money into.

Should have learned my lesson on the first boat I owned... ex-wife thought we should buy a sail boat because our friends had a power boat and they also liked to sail.... it cost me over $2500 to learn that she didn't like to sail.... she was afraid of getting her hair wet.
 
No need for an outside mechanic, dig in and learn it, your life may depend on it{or least your outing}. As mentioned, check first to see if it's locked up. Remove the plug{s} to ease in turning the flywheel. check fluids and impeller as also mentioned. Check fuel lines and primer bulb. Check all fittings, electrical, fuel, fasteners etc. Stay away from those garden hose 'ears' for testing, they're fine at an idle but nothing more. Since you'll probably need a storage rack for the off season, make one tall enough you can fit a large garbage can or similar under the motor for checking things like shifting, adjusting linkages/carb{s} etc. The water you run in, is the coolant, be it tank or lake, as mentioned earlier, never, not even for a second or two run it dry, If your impeller is dry, you'll most likely destroy it by doing so. You can wrench on cars and what-nots, you'll have no problem with outboards{other than finding time ;) } also lots of youtube help and a favorite site of mine for years and years is iboats.com ...more info than should be allowed free of charge :thumb: Enjoy the ride Captain.
 
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