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Thread: Deck plans?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Deck plans?

    Does anyone have a good source for plans or guidelines on building a deck?

    I need to build a freestanding deck that be next the new pool I put in.

    The pool is next to a hill side, so it will be going from the pool right up to on ground.

    In the picture below, I'll be putting the deck in on the side closest to the picture taker, with stairs going down off to the right, and a enclosure of some kind to protect the pump and filter.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
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    What will the dimensions be? That is how tall will it be (at the pool side) and how far out from and around the pool will you be going?

    Can you get bob up into all the areas where you'll want posts to dig some holes for the footers?

    Looking forward to seeing Chuck's advice..
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

  3. #3
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    Footers would be difficult no matter what.

    I can probably sink a couple of holes here and there, but not sure I really want to make it quite that permanent.

    We don't really have the issue with frost heaves, as it never really gets cold enough long enough to worry about.

    The pool is 15x26, so I'm thinking the deck will just go around halfway, so 20-26' long, and I'd like it to extend up on the hill side , probably 10'-15' wide.

    The pool is 54" high, so that's the height on one end, and the height on the hill side would whatever it takes to be flat.
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  4. #4
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    Basic guidelines:
    http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/publications/dca6

    Specifically the deck building guide
    http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standar...Guide-1405.pdf

    And the inspection checklist (for a short list of things that people usually do wrong):
    http://nadra.org/Deck_Evaluation_Form.pdf

    I think you'll want to set the footers in some, otherwise its likely to go all skewy regardless of bracing underneath. This suggests 12" as a minimum depth, perhaps with your rock problems digging a smidge deeper and compacting in some 3/4 minus crush would make it easier to level the piers.
    http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2012...lding-mistakes
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

  5. #5
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    12" footers would probably not be that big of an issue. I could do that easily enough.
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  6. #6
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    I don't know how far around the pool you want to go, but I'd probably do 4 main beams on posts with cross bracing between them (if you're just putting posts on pads), then run the joist between and shape your header joists around the pool as shown, then run the decking towards the pool just under the top cap. If that make sense.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Someone else may have a better solution though.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  7. #7
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    Hey, Thanks Darren. That looks like what I should probably do!

    Now to put together a shopping list.
    Programmer - An organism that turns coffee into software.
    If all your friends are exactly like you, What an un-interesting life it must be.
    "A door is what a dog is perpetually on the wrong side of" Ogden Nash


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brent Dowell View Post
    12" footers would probably not be that big of an issue. I could do that easily enough.
    One possible "less permanent" option that meets code here in NC is a hole with two layers of solid 4x8x16 cinder blocks, two blocks in each layer, and the top layer at 90 degrees to the bottom layer. Center the post on the pad (a CMS is really helpful for getting the posts plumb) and backfill the hole with dirt to keep the post from shifting. If I remember right, 4" of backfill was sufficient for my inspector, so the holes were only 12" deep and no need to pour concrete.


    --dave
    --dave

  9. #9
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    up here you need to use 4x6 not 4x4 they dont have ground contack treatment on 4x4's
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
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