Shop Build - Winding River Workshop

seeing as how you dont have to spend time or money yet play with a 4x8 assembly table with storage around it in threw darrens sketch up pic.. i never regretted that sise rennie. and using a large outfeed table as a assembly bench works well to.
 
Having a roll around table, 4 X 8, that can double as an out feed makes sense. I can push my small table, which is actually a Kreg pocket hole worktop, against a wall.
 
Completed the 10 page zoning permit request for the building of the storage shed. Had to measure every building, setback and building height along with locations of septic field and well head. Also had to draw a site plan showing all of the above and submit framing plans and elevations for the shed. seems like a lot of hullabaloo for someplace to store a couple of shovels and a lawn mower. :doh:

Here's a sampling of what I supplied. Overkill, perhaps, but with the government you want to cover all the bases.:bang:

View attachment Heuer Shed #3 (1).pdf
Slide1.jpgSlide2.jpgSlide3.jpgSite Plan jpg.jpg
 
According to the officials around here, swapping out an electrical outlet or a hot water heater would require pulling a permit too.
 
Our local building code reads:
1. Building permits. A building permit shall not be required for the following:
a. One-story detached accessory buildings used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses, and similaruses provide the floor area does not exceed one hundred twenty (120) square feet.

Obviously yours is larger than that, I didn't see that when I first asked. ;)
 
Our local building code reads:
1. Building permits. A building permit shall not be required for the following:
a. One-story detached accessory buildings used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses, and similaruses provide the floor area does not exceed one hundred twenty (120) square feet.

Obviously yours is larger than that, I didn't see that when I first asked. ;)

I think they bumped up our shed size from 120 to 200 square feet now without a permit or inspections, so Hey, why not build 10 of them!
 
The paperwork I had to complete was for zoning, not building. We can go to 200 sf without a permit to build or the requisite inspections. All buildings on the property have to meet with zoning requirements such as setbacks, height restrictions, wetlands, etc.

I believe I have met all those requirements and should get the ok to proceed.
 
Ideas one - Basic Layout

Just accounting for the major tools already in the stable, here's a basic layout. It does not differ a lot from the layout I had in my last shop, but it does have more space and a large (4x8) assembly table that doubles as an outfeed.

1 East.jpg1 North.jpg1 Overview.jpg1 South.jpg1 West.jpg

Lumber storage is small because I intend to keep the bulk of the lumber in the shed. Every tool is on wheels which allows me to store things against the walls and pull them out to the floor only when necessary.

My plan for electric service is simple and allows for changing needs and tools. What I intend to do is place a quad 120v and single 220v at 4' intervals all around the exterior walls of the shop and have two retractable 120v reels hanging from the ceiling. There will also be 4 220v drops from the ceiling for the TS and Jointer and allow for some flexibility should I need to reposition them for a special need/project.

Dust collection can also be simple, coming out of the closet just off center in the space and going straight across the ceiling to the west wall and branching north and south. Additional branches can head north and south over the center of the floor to pick up the TS, jointer, and miter saw. A small branch can run from the front of the closet to service the router table. Both electric and dust collection can avoid having to run over or around the roll up door by routing them in this fashion.

As always, I'm open to suggestions and constructive criticism!
 
Looks pretty nice, although I'm not seeing where the lathe is? :D

I am kind of wondering how well having to pull the planer out from the wall will work out in the long run. I'm kind of liking the heavier/stable more permanent setup I have at the moment..

I like the power and DC layout ideas. I think you might? be slightly over doing the 220 but as they say cry once.

For the 110v If you can run a couple of separate runs and alternate outlets (so for a quad outlet you'd have one from each run) and color code the outlets to the circuit, that's really handy because you can plug in two high powered tools (big vacuum/router for instance) in the same block but on different circuits. And having the outlets color coded means no guessing.

For the overhead, back to "cry once", the coxreels are very very well built:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_electrical+cord-reels+coxreels
I'd probably look at the 30' 12/3 for $299 and add a 2 or 4 outlet box on the end for the interior drop. I got the 50' with the box for that price but apparently prices have gone up :eek: A 50' one nearer the door can be very handy as well if you need to do larger stuff outside sometimes.

A lot of the cord reels have cable that is imho to small, the 12/3 cable can handle a full 20a without sweating to much. Be especially careful sizing the wire size/length. The thinner wire on a longer cord reel can heat up to much causing a fire hazard - if you do go with a 14/3 or (worse) 16/3 cable err on the side of "just long enough" or plan to pull it most of the way out when using higher amp tools so the coils don't heat up to much. With 12/3 its .. less... of a concern (still there but less so); but I sure wouldn't leave an induction heater plugged into it overnight (I wouldn't do that in a regular socket either but 10x the risk with a cord reel).
 
That looks like it would work. Maybe flip the positions of the air compressor and DC to shorten the run to the big tools by 6' - 7' would be the only change I'd do. May not make a difference for what you have, but my HF DC would run out of decent suction by the time it got to the BS and tools on the far side otherwise.
 
Pulling the planer is a little bit of a chore, but the arrangement has worked ok for me so far. I had planned on about 4 120v circuits not counting the lighting or office. One for the miter saw, two for the perimeter run (as suggested, one for either side of the quad box), and one for the ceiling reels. As for the reels I have one of the HF units and will likely get another. I use them to power sanders, jig saw, etc. nothing large. And they are much less expensive!

I thought about the future addition of a lathe! I would roll the drill press over to the wall by the band saw and pit the lathe under the window.

I placed the dust collector so clean out would be easier, rather than have the canister and bag hiding in a corner. I understand the shorter run issue, but I hope the unit I want to get can handle it. I'm looking at the grizzly 2hp GO548ZP with 1700 CFM. I really wanted the 2 bag unit, but budget rules. Going with plastic pipe this time an hoping to run a full 6" across the shop and along the wall reducing to 4 at each drop for the tools. Even gave some thought to running the ductwork in the attic to save ceiling height.
 
Rennie

In my little shop I found that the jointer worked well on the left side if the table-saw.

I made a riser of around 2" for the table-saw & built a cabinet for the Jointer to drop it so the top was at 32" this dropped the Jointer fence below the table-saw & out-feed bench/table top surface. The table-saw out feed-table/bench was 36" high.

I also found that a bag style DC worked best when established next to a exterior door for when it needed to be emptied or if the filter needed to be cleaned.
 

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Rennie

In my little shop I found that the jointer worked well on the left side if the table-saw.

I made a riser of around 2" for the table-saw & built a cabinet for the Jointer to drop it so the top was at 32" this dropped the Jointer fence below the table-saw & out-feed bench/table top surface. The table-saw out feed-table/bench was 36" high.

I also found that a bag style DC worked best when established next to a exterior door for when it needed to be emptied or if the filter needed to be cleaned.

That's a neat set up. Don't know that I could make it work though. My jointer is on a metal stand that puts the jointer table below the saw, but not the fence. For me the jointer is one of the hardest tools to place given its size, clearance requirements, and difficulty to move.

I did notice you have the DC I am looking at and (more importantly) the same autographed picture of Norm.
 
I made the new stand for the jointer which also gave me a place to store extra blade sets for both the jointer & planer as well as setup jigs.
 

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Moved the office space up front to take advantage of the window and serve as a bit of an air lock for the shop. I think this makes a little more usable square footage available to the shop.

The evolving plan.
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