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Thread: Shop Build - Winding River Workshop

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, Missouri
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    12,881
    Quote Originally Posted by Rennie Heuer View Post
    The paperwork I had to complete was for zoning, not building.
    Ah! Gottcha.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    DSM, IA
    Posts
    5,719
    Wow you are right along the river! Looking forward to you sharing your build Rennie!
    A man is rich in proportion to the number of things he can afford to let alone. -Henry David Thoreau
    My Website


  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,447

    Ideas one - Basic Layout

    Just accounting for the major tools already in the stable, here's a basic layout. It does not differ a lot from the layout I had in my last shop, but it does have more space and a large (4x8) assembly table that doubles as an outfeed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Lumber storage is small because I intend to keep the bulk of the lumber in the shed. Every tool is on wheels which allows me to store things against the walls and pull them out to the floor only when necessary.

    My plan for electric service is simple and allows for changing needs and tools. What I intend to do is place a quad 120v and single 220v at 4' intervals all around the exterior walls of the shop and have two retractable 120v reels hanging from the ceiling. There will also be 4 220v drops from the ceiling for the TS and Jointer and allow for some flexibility should I need to reposition them for a special need/project.

    Dust collection can also be simple, coming out of the closet just off center in the space and going straight across the ceiling to the west wall and branching north and south. Additional branches can head north and south over the center of the floor to pick up the TS, jointer, and miter saw. A small branch can run from the front of the closet to service the router table. Both electric and dust collection can avoid having to run over or around the roll up door by routing them in this fashion.

    As always, I'm open to suggestions and constructive criticism!
    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    The Gorge Area, Oregon
    Posts
    4,512
    Looks pretty nice, although I'm not seeing where the lathe is?

    I am kind of wondering how well having to pull the planer out from the wall will work out in the long run. I'm kind of liking the heavier/stable more permanent setup I have at the moment..

    I like the power and DC layout ideas. I think you might? be slightly over doing the 220 but as they say cry once.

    For the 110v If you can run a couple of separate runs and alternate outlets (so for a quad outlet you'd have one from each run) and color code the outlets to the circuit, that's really handy because you can plug in two high powered tools (big vacuum/router for instance) in the same block but on different circuits. And having the outlets color coded means no guessing.

    For the overhead, back to "cry once", the coxreels are very very well built:
    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...reels+coxreels
    I'd probably look at the 30' 12/3 for $299 and add a 2 or 4 outlet box on the end for the interior drop. I got the 50' with the box for that price but apparently prices have gone up A 50' one nearer the door can be very handy as well if you need to do larger stuff outside sometimes.

    A lot of the cord reels have cable that is imho to small, the 12/3 cable can handle a full 20a without sweating to much. Be especially careful sizing the wire size/length. The thinner wire on a longer cord reel can heat up to much causing a fire hazard - if you do go with a 14/3 or (worse) 16/3 cable err on the side of "just long enough" or plan to pull it most of the way out when using higher amp tools so the coils don't heat up to much. With 12/3 its .. less... of a concern (still there but less so); but I sure wouldn't leave an induction heater plugged into it overnight (I wouldn't do that in a regular socket either but 10x the risk with a cord reel).
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, Missouri
    Posts
    12,881
    That looks like it would work. Maybe flip the positions of the air compressor and DC to shorten the run to the big tools by 6' - 7' would be the only change I'd do. May not make a difference for what you have, but my HF DC would run out of decent suction by the time it got to the BS and tools on the far side otherwise.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,447
    Pulling the planer is a little bit of a chore, but the arrangement has worked ok for me so far. I had planned on about 4 120v circuits not counting the lighting or office. One for the miter saw, two for the perimeter run (as suggested, one for either side of the quad box), and one for the ceiling reels. As for the reels I have one of the HF units and will likely get another. I use them to power sanders, jig saw, etc. nothing large. And they are much less expensive!

    I thought about the future addition of a lathe! I would roll the drill press over to the wall by the band saw and pit the lathe under the window.

    I placed the dust collector so clean out would be easier, rather than have the canister and bag hiding in a corner. I understand the shorter run issue, but I hope the unit I want to get can handle it. I'm looking at the grizzly 2hp GO548ZP with 1700 CFM. I really wanted the 2 bag unit, but budget rules. Going with plastic pipe this time an hoping to run a full 6" across the shop and along the wall reducing to 4 at each drop for the tools. Even gave some thought to running the ductwork in the attic to save ceiling height.
    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Oak Harbor Washington on Whidbey Island
    Posts
    3,106
    Rennie

    In my little shop I found that the jointer worked well on the left side if the table-saw.

    I made a riser of around 2" for the table-saw & built a cabinet for the Jointer to drop it so the top was at 32" this dropped the Jointer fence below the table-saw & out-feed bench/table top surface. The table-saw out feed-table/bench was 36" high.

    I also found that a bag style DC worked best when established next to a exterior door for when it needed to be emptied or if the filter needed to be cleaned.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Outintheshop004-1.jpg   A1 myshop DC.jpg  
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,447
    Quote Originally Posted by Bart Leetch View Post
    Rennie

    In my little shop I found that the jointer worked well on the left side if the table-saw.

    I made a riser of around 2" for the table-saw & built a cabinet for the Jointer to drop it so the top was at 32" this dropped the Jointer fence below the table-saw & out-feed bench/table top surface. The table-saw out feed-table/bench was 36" high.

    I also found that a bag style DC worked best when established next to a exterior door for when it needed to be emptied or if the filter needed to be cleaned.
    That's a neat set up. Don't know that I could make it work though. My jointer is on a metal stand that puts the jointer table below the saw, but not the fence. For me the jointer is one of the hardest tools to place given its size, clearance requirements, and difficulty to move.

    I did notice you have the DC I am looking at and (more importantly) the same autographed picture of Norm.
    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Oak Harbor Washington on Whidbey Island
    Posts
    3,106
    I made the new stand for the jointer which also gave me a place to store extra blade sets for both the jointer & planer as well as setup jigs.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Jointer Cabinet 010.jpg   New Jointer Cabinet 012.jpg  
    "Forget the flat stuff slap something on the spinny thing and lets go, we're burning daylight" Bart Leetch
    "If it ain't round you may be a knuckle dragger""Turners drag their nuckles too, they just do it at a higher RPM"Bart

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Constantine, MI
    Posts
    7,447
    Moved the office space up front to take advantage of the window and serve as a bit of an air lock for the shop. I think this makes a little more usable square footage available to the shop.

    The evolving plan.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

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