Stuart Ablett
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The video...
I think the carbon cloth and epoxy is worth the effort.
Cheers
I think the carbon cloth and epoxy is worth the effort.
Cheers
...I'm going to get some more wood and try thinner strips, maybe only a few millimeters thick...
I've had good results using laminations that are about 3/32" (~2mm) thick. What glue are you using? Titebond, etc., tends to creep, and seems a bit 'soft.' Powdered recorcinal glue allows more opwn/working time, and dries overnight to a very hard and strong joint, with no creep. Expensive and messy, there's always epoxy.
Jim, when you do this, do you run the thin pieces through the thickness planer?
Cheers!
No. I get a really smooth cut off my Laguna Resaw King blade, so I can usually glue directly from there. If they need any touch-up at all, I take a very light pass through the Performax drum sander.
I haven't done enough bending to call myself an expert, but I start with very thin wood, and never use white or yellow glue since it creeps (my first choice is urea resin glue that I use for veneering). I have never done any steaming.
How thin does the wood have to be? Just enough that it doesn't break when bent, which depends on how severe a bend and how wide a board, but 4-5 mm would be a common starting point. I use a carbide blade in a big bandsaw, so the cut is smooth enough that I can get 4-6 "veneers" before a quick pass on the jointer to give me a new starting reference surface against the bandsaw fence. The urea resin glue is gap filling which gives forgiveness for the slight roughness of a bandsawed surface (in fact with shop cut veneers, I glue the sawn side to the substrate and sand the finished surface after the glue dries).
Charlie do you mean that Gorilla glue stuff?
Urea resin is what he meant.
...I want a 10 degree bend, but I'm concerned about some rebound after it is glued up, so I was thinking (always dangerous) to make the form 11 degrees or even 12 degrees, anyone care to comment on that idea?...