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Thread: Need help on how to square up one edge on rough lumber

  1. #1

    Need help on how to square up one edge on rough lumber

    I have some rough 1 x 12 lumber that is 6 feet long that I need to keep 6 feet long. Both edges are rough and the width varies by as much as 1/8 " in the 6 foot run, and it might vary that width several times. Any idea in how to square one edge so I can rip it on my table saw to the desired width? Could I clamp on a straight edge using the best guess method and cut it with circle saw? Even with the different widths could I do this on my router table? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Your suggested straight-edge and circular method will work. You could also screw/clamp it to an already straight board and run it through the tablesaw to get an edge.

    I wouldn't try it on the router table, though. If you only need to take of an eighth of an inch, a straight-edge and a flush trim in a handheld router should work nicely.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  3. #3
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    I have been known to screw a piece of 2'' square channel to one edge and use that against the fence to rip the opposite edge, used to do it often when i was using a lot of rough lumber . I still have the piece of channel standing in the corner of my shop.
    "There’s a lot of work being done today that doesn’t have any soul in it. The technique may be the utmost perfection, yet it is lifeless. It doesn’t have a soul. I hope my furniture has a soul to it." - Sam Maloof
    The Pessimist complains about the wind; The Optimist expects it to change;The Realist adjusts the sails.~ William Arthur Ward

  4. #4
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    sqaring rough edge on lumber

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Baer View Post
    I have been known to screw a piece of 2'' square channel to one edge and use that against the fence to rip the opposite edge, used to do it often when i was using a lot of rough lumber . I still have the piece of channel standing in the corner of my shop.
    I have used a long strip of 1/2" PLYWOOD, 10"S wide for this purpose for many years----as follows--- set up the ply extends beyond the edge not being trimmed-this edge against the saw fence. I use my air stapler very near the end of the board being straightened--two on each end will usually suffice-----distance the fence so that the blade removes enough wood to result in the clean edge desired---with care move this unit through the saw--- and you have your desired outcome. Than I pull off the guide strip---snip the staples at about 1/4"-- drive staples back to enable their removal with a pliers. The very small staple holes the staples leave at the very ends of the board generally are of no consequence. I have used this strip for this purpose for more than 20 years-----works for me.

  5. #5
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    First - what do the faces look like?

    Square is a correlation between two faces - so the first thing you need is a flat face before you can get a square edge. This is still doable without a jointer & planer (though those two tools make it a breeze). You can hand plane one face close enough to flat so it won't rock on the table saw table and then square up the edge as you describe. But if the faces aren't true, the quality and safety of using anything on the edge is questionable.

    If you've got one good flat face, then both methods you describe will work - for the router table, you need an offset fence that has the infeed side set back to allow for the depth of cut and the outfeed side is flush with the cutters. For the TS, sticking it to a known straight board and running it through works great. As long as the board is flat on one face, these methods work great.
    Jason Beam
    Sacramento, CA

  6. #6
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    Wonderful sales pitch for a sliding table saw. I do this all the time, just clamping a board to the sliding table, and get a cut even better than against a rip fence. I even make a new edge on a board where one end has a flaw on one side, the there is another flaw farther down on the opposite side.
    Charlie Plesums, Austin Texas
    (Retired early to become a custom furnituremaker)
    Lots of my free advice at www.solowoodworker.com

  7. #7
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    cant find picture or thread on it but i made a small jig for bob gibson of jig i use all the time for straight line ripping of rough sawn lumber.. take a piece of 1/2" ply rip to approx 8" wide and the length you want i have 2 one at 4ft and one at 8ft long. then take and apply a 2" wide piece along the long side and glue nd staple in place, then a short piece on one end, that is your catch end, place over your board so that the bow is out towards the saw blade measure both ends to get the smallest number then set your saw for that and push it threw with jig on top and running along the fence works great, its post 86 for the pic. you dont need two thickness of strips like the pic shows it just gives you a better grip.


    link to post 86
    Last edited by larry merlau; 10-20-2016 at 10:53 PM.
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  8. #8
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    Lol i got to be the black sheep of this family. I now understand your jig Larry. Only took 4 years or so. call me slow.
    cheers

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    cant find picture or thread on it but i made a small jig for bob gibson of jig i use all the time for straight line ripping of rough sawn lumber.. take a piece of 1/2" ply rip to approx 8" wide and the length you want i have 2 one at 4ft and one at 8ft long. then take and apply a 2" wide piece along the long side and glue nd staple in place, then a short piece on one end, that is your catch end, place over your board so that the bow is out towards the saw blade measure both ends to get the smallest number then set your saw for that and push it threw with jig on top and running along the fence works great, its post 86 for the pic. you dont need two thickness of strips like the pic shows it just gives you a better grip.


    link to post 86

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