Table saw blades

Just wondering, does anyone here use an 8 1/4" inch blade in a 10 inch table saw.

I know some folks use a 6 inch dado as opposed to 8 1/4" inch dado given how deep most dado cuts are.

I have spotted an opportunity to purchase 8 1/4" inch freud thin kerf blades for ridiculously low price in 40 tooth finishing blade tooth format at around $13 US or $16.75 Cdn.

I figure for most cutting this will provide more than enough blade height.

By my figuring i would only be loosing 1 inch.

Whats wisdom here say.?

These blades are less than half the price of 10" same manufacturer same kerf.

Go for it! The smaller (diameter) blades work very well, and at 8¼", you can still cut thru a 2 X 4, so for most jobs, you won't even miss that 7/8" of cutting capacity.

An added advantage with thin kerf is that the 8¼" will flex less than a 10".

I agree with Jim. I also want to know where I can get such a deal!

For most of the cutting I do, those blades would be fine, and possibly put less strain on the motor, too. Come on now, tell a fellow Canadian where you get them.

Carol Reed said:

I agree with Jim. I also want to know where I can get such a deal!

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Here is the source in Canada

http://www.ihlcanada.com/22366.html

Roger Tulk said:

For most of the cutting I do, those blades would be fine, and possibly put less strain on the motor, too. Come on now, tell a fellow Canadian where you get them.

Click to expand...

Roger see above, this is a local pro equipment and hardware store in Woodbridge , Vaughan, Ontario.

The tooth tip speed is about 20% lower which means you have less chance of burning for the same tooth spacing but may have a slightly rougher cut (assuming the tooth tip-tip distance is equivalent). For perspective the 10" would be cutting at a tooth contact speed of around 152 feet/s whereas this blade will be cutting at around 125 feet/s. The upshot is that you can use a somewhat finer blade for the same cut (basically more teeth == same cut quality with less chance of burning) or perhaps slow your feed rate a smidge if its not cutting smooth enough for you.

If you want to get technical on chip load and feed speeds see:
http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/saw-blade-feed-speed-and-tooth-quantity.html

In practice having clean/sharp blades tends to overwhelm all of that so a nice source of cheap decent blades is muy bueno

OK had to go to Costco close by this place.
Deal is bogus one of these bait and switch stunts. Blade shown is not the blade in advertising they just lost a customer nothing makes me more mad than bait and switch.


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We got a deal on some 9" blades a few years ago. Also sometimes use 7.25" circular saw blades (why use a good blade to rip fence boards and similar).

BTW it's soon F&C time ...

The biggest concern I have when using smaller blades is ensuring that the kerf of the blade is compatible with the width of your splitter or riving knife. Smaller diameter blades tend to have a narrower kerf. If the kerf is narrower than the splitter, the wood will bind mid cut and really cause a big safety problem.

The smaller blades tend to change the attack angle of the teeth as they enter and exit the wood, which can change the tearout characteristics of the cut vs a 10" blade but it's not safety concern, and can be accommodated somewhat by altering the blade height.