Calling Veg growers

OK picture tells the story.

This pioneer will die this winter given this harvest so what's the secret to growing carrots.

I know about thinning we did that it did not help.
These carrots have been in ground since early May and were started indoors before that.

They very tasty but man yield and size poor. Not sure of species. Even critters turn noses up at them lol only a couple were nibbled at the top by resident bunny or squirrels. Pretty embarrassing makes one think about the early days when people went out west and hoped for best.
So far we ain't any good at veg growing.

Going to turn soil and try again next year.

Any suggestions?

Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
Plant seeds 3-4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.

Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination and block the sun from the roots.
Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
Water at least one inch per week.
Weed diligently.
Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.

Them are some stubbies. So what's the hardiness zone you're in? Were you doing raised beds or in the ground? If in the ground, I'd be guessing that the ground temperature was a lot cooler in your area than others, things tend to grow where they are comfortable.

Don't bother starting (most) root veg indoors. Transplanting shock actually slows them down more than you gain from the early start. Ditto corn. If you really need the extra growing season I can highly recommend floating row covers (essentially a light partially translucent cloth kind of like what they use on the underside of upholstered chairs) as a nice simple way to add a few weeks (or more). For colder climates (I think you should have plenty of season and not need these - at least for carrots) you can move up from floating row covers to cold frames or hoop houses (cold frames are especially nice for doing starts in raised beds).

Loose sandy soil is key to getting long delicious roots. Thick clay or even heavy loam will substantially reduce the length and size.

Picking varieties matters some as well (some types are just bigger).

This has been a rather bad year for myself and several others I know for some strange reason. Mainly because the bees vacated for quite a while. Hung some extra hummingbird feeders and here they came back and looks like I am shortly going to have some nice fall tomatoes if nothing else. Good luck on them thar carrots. I ain't got a clue what to tell ya.

I found this...

eHow Garden Plants, Flowers & Herbs Growing Vegetables What Causes My Carrots to be bitter?


Carrots are sweet root vegetables that grow best in the early spring. The produce contains a high amount of vitamin A and fiber. Sometimes harvested carrots may not taste sweet. A bitter-tasting carrot may leave you feeling discouraged about growing your own carrots. Knowing why your carrots taste bitter can help you salvage your crops so that you can enjoy their pleasant and naturally sweet flavor.

High Temperatures

Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible.

I also recommend SQ.FT. Gardening by Mel Bartholomew.

From Amazon.

One of the bestselling garden books ever is fresher than ever! Ready to inspire a whole new generation of gardeners.

When he created the "square foot gardening" method, Mel Bartholomew, a retired engineer and efficiency expert, found the solution to the frustrations of most gardeners. His revolutionary system is simple: it's an ingenious planting method based on using square foot blocks of garden space instead of rows. Gardeners build up, not down, so there's no digging and no tilling after the first year. And the method requires less thinning, less weeding, and less watering.

"I found a better way to garden, one that's more efficient, more manageable, and requires less work," Bartholomew explains. Not surprisingly, his method quickly received worldwide recognition and has been written up in every major newspaper and gardening magazine. His book, which served as the companion to the nationally acclaimed television series, has sold over 800,000 copies. Now freshened with new illustrations, the book Ingram calls "the largest selling garden book in America" is reissued for the delight of a whole new generation of gardeners.

As others have said, some veggies taste better after a light frost or two. Collards, kale and carrots among them. I tried carrots a few years ago, but it was after adding lots of "composted" horse manure to the bed and many of the carrots forked....haven't tried them since. I use EMT hoops: http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-7708-quick-hoops-low-tunnel-bender-4-w-x-4-h.aspx and Agribon fabric: http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8418-agribon-ag-19-row-cover-10-x-50.aspx to create low tunnels to extend the fall and spring growing season. When it gets really cold I cover the hoop houses with greenhouse film. This turns the hoop houses into mini greenhouses, so you have to closely monitor the internal temps....they can get toasty.

We did gardens for years, anymore I find the produce isle at the local supermarket or farmers market are a better deal less work and the company is better.

Soil test can possibly point out some deficiencies. Had garden problems several years ago and soil tests showed the errors of my ways. Amended soil and great results.
David

David Johnson said:

Soil test can possibly point out some deficiencies. Had garden problems several years ago and soil tests showed the errors of my ways. Amended soil and great results.
David

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Good call there, even the simple NPK and PH tests you can easily do at home are a really good start and the test kit only costs a few bucks. Most Ag extensions will do some testing for basically free down here, not sure up in canada but usually its pretty cheap even without that - http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/resource/soillabs.htm

Garry Foster said:

<snip>I find the produce isle at the local supermarket or farmers market are a better deal less work and the company is better.

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I dunno, I get along with my plants pretty well.. lots of quality time.

I don't know what species you planted but they look like they might be finger carrots which don't get nearly as long as the carrots you see in the store. I used to plant finger carrots and I found them to be very good eating.

Carrots require deep loamy soil if you want to grow long carrots like those in the store. I use a raised bed system for my garden and continually pack organic matter and compost into the soil to keep it both fluffy and nutrient rich. I was never able to get any carrots much longer than 7 or 8 inches.

By the way I was told to store the carrots with the tops on so they wouldn't dry out as much.

I have heard Sandy Loam is really good for carrots.

Different species also make a difference.

I like Scarlet Nantes, but they don't grow long and pointy like supermarket.

Oh, and supermarket is not the best variety, they just have a better shelf life.

I think that Mike and Leo have the answer, sandy loam. I assume that you are still in muddy York with lots of clay.

Thank you all very much for the input. I think soil test is definitely on the cards.
I think this soil is baron sand. I did bring in a load of compost but it was suspect too, being sold by our local waste recycling depot and upon inspection, it had been cut with pure sand too.
Will have another go next year and see what happens.