steve morris
Member
- Messages
- 52
faced with the prospect of making 6 dining chairs with angled M/T joinery, i came up with this jig and saw via a google search
they are called a chairmakers saw and a tenoning clamp
the clamp is pretty simple, 3/4 plywood, glued and screwed, then a clamping jaw with a bolt, nuts and washers. and a handle
then the shoulder cutting saw:
its just a block of white oak scrap, a japanese folding saw blade and an old plane knob and tote, all bolted together
these make cutting the angled shoulders easy and accurate
here's a couple more shots of the saw.
i started with a scrap of white oak, 2" by 10", about 1 1/2" thick
sliced it to give a 5/8 thick bottom, jointed and planed the bottom for a consistent thickness
drilled some holes for 5/16 bolts(be careful drilling the very thin blade)
a junky old hand plane gave up its knob and tote, a couple of squarehead bolts(makes it look old!!) and nuts and washers
this is the saw from lee valley, i always have a couple of these around and a spare blade or two
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...884,42898&ap=1
the cheek cuts were done on my tablesaw with my shopmade tenoning jig
the angled mortise was cut using my beaver drillpress and hollow chisel mortising attachment. note the angled scrap under the work piece
and here is my tenoning jig for the tablesaw, nothing fancy, just some scrap 3/4 plywood. note that i added hardwood to the sides of my rather narrow old delta jetlock fence for more stability for the jig. the jig just cuts the cheek cuts, the shoulder cuts are done as above
im at the "prototype" stage at the moment, practising and setting up with scraps
i'll be building this chair(6 actually): http://www.popularwoodworking.com/oct15/slat-back-chair
the article has some info on the clamp and saw
they are called a chairmakers saw and a tenoning clamp
the clamp is pretty simple, 3/4 plywood, glued and screwed, then a clamping jaw with a bolt, nuts and washers. and a handle
then the shoulder cutting saw:
its just a block of white oak scrap, a japanese folding saw blade and an old plane knob and tote, all bolted together
these make cutting the angled shoulders easy and accurate
here's a couple more shots of the saw.
i started with a scrap of white oak, 2" by 10", about 1 1/2" thick
sliced it to give a 5/8 thick bottom, jointed and planed the bottom for a consistent thickness
drilled some holes for 5/16 bolts(be careful drilling the very thin blade)
a junky old hand plane gave up its knob and tote, a couple of squarehead bolts(makes it look old!!) and nuts and washers
this is the saw from lee valley, i always have a couple of these around and a spare blade or two
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...884,42898&ap=1
the cheek cuts were done on my tablesaw with my shopmade tenoning jig
the angled mortise was cut using my beaver drillpress and hollow chisel mortising attachment. note the angled scrap under the work piece
and here is my tenoning jig for the tablesaw, nothing fancy, just some scrap 3/4 plywood. note that i added hardwood to the sides of my rather narrow old delta jetlock fence for more stability for the jig. the jig just cuts the cheek cuts, the shoulder cuts are done as above
im at the "prototype" stage at the moment, practising and setting up with scraps
i'll be building this chair(6 actually): http://www.popularwoodworking.com/oct15/slat-back-chair
the article has some info on the clamp and saw