Adapting DC to PVC (and other questions)

Rennie Heuer

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Rather than hijack Brent's thread about the upgrading of his DC system I figured it best to start a new one. I purchased a Grizzly G0548ZP - 2HP Canister Dust Collector and the Super Dust Deputy cyclone. My intent is to use 6" PVC sewer/drain pipe for as much of the system as possible. Starting at the collector there is a mismatch in size. The PVC pipe is close to the same size so does not mate with the DC outlet and the fittings are too large. I've looked around on the web a bit and can't seem to find an adapter specifically made for this purpose.My thought is to use a no hub flex connector1056-66.jpg to connect the outlet to a short section of pipe and then connect the fitting to the pipe. Seems like it would work. I can't be the only person that has had to address this issue. Anyone have an idea on this?
 
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you might be able to resize the the six inch metal ducting with a crimping tool to get the connection closer. so you could use common heat duct for the transition.
 
In working out myDC I found it is very difficult to get proper size between 4"and the PVC fittings. Rockers has a bunch and they do have adapters but hard to determine sizing without actually dry fitting. Hate to buy parts and find they don't work out. My DC is still a " work in progress" .
David
 
The 6" fitting on my Super Dust Deputy is made to be the same size as the ducting. What you need is an connector meant to connect 2 6" ducts, like this.



View attachment 97868

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-6-in-dia-Crimped-Galvanized-Steel-Flexible-Duct-Connector/3130223
Odly enough the inlet is a perfect match to the PVC fittings and I'll be able to just friction fit a 90 degree fitting to it. It's the outlet that is the issue on the cyclone (I thing the inlet on the DC can be addressed with the rubber collar).

I have an email into the Oneida people asking them about an adapter they sell to attach a flex hose to see if it will also work for PVC.
 
New question

My system will have a 6" main trunk and I'll be dropping from 6" to 4" PVC as I get closer to each machine. I would then like to install a blast gate and transition to flex hose for the machine hook up. My last system was metal ducting with aluminum blast gates but I sold all that off before moving.

My question: Which plastic blast gates on the market work the best with standard schedule 40 4" PVC pipe? Rockler, Woodcraft, Oneida all market 4" blast gates but not of the descriptions definitively state they will mate with PVC pipe. I know many of you have PVC collection systems, so which gates have you used and with how much success?
 
So far any plastic blast gate I've gotten has fit the S&D pvc pipe, sometimes a little loose and a couple of wraps of masking tape around the male side tightens things up. If the male side is a little too big. you can always soften up the pvc with a torch and make it conform to the piece. I've simply drilled 3 pilot holes for screws and screwed all my joints, makes it easy to reconfigure if need be. For hose connections, I've put union or a 22.5 degree elbow at the end and then just put the quick connectors on my hoses. The quick connectors actually fit right inside the end of the elbow snuggly, or use a blast gate right on the end and slip the quick connector over it.

A few pics here: https://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?19814-Darren-s-Shop&p=415944#post415944
 
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Thanks Darren, I had forgotten about your build thread. I'll be ordering up some 6" flex and a half dozen 4" gates later today.

Re-reading your thread I saw a few things I have been dealing with in my shop build like a poorly installed electrical system and switches wired into the neutral leg. Thanks for the reminder!

So far any plastic blast gate I've gotten has fit the S&D pvc pipe, sometimes a little loose and a couple of wraps of masking tape around the male side tightens things up. If the male side is a little too big. you can always soften up the pvc with a torch and make it conform to the piece. I've simply drilled 3 pilot holes for screws and screwed all my joints, makes it easy to reconfigure if need be. For hose connections, I've put union or a 22.5 degree elbow at the end and then just put the quick connectors on my hoses. The quick connectors actually fit right inside the end of the elbow snuggly, or use a blast gate right on the end and slip the quick connector over it.

A few pics here: https://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?19814-Darren-s-Shop&p=415944#post415944
 
Problem solved!

Trolling around the inter web I found a YouTube from a fellow that makes his own PVC fittings using heat and a form. Well, I said to myself, why didn't I think of that?!?!

So I cut off a 4" section of pipe to give it a try. In the first picture you can see that the pipe just slips over the last 32nd of an inch of the D.C. inlet. Second pic shows what you can do after 5 minutes with a heat gun. Finally, with the 90* fitting attached.
3f5e088f351ff63c67920d396df57867.jpg

91d2f27447e22cf45b3e978a9093cf51.jpg

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and I'll be able to just friction fit a 90 degree fitting to it.

??? think about it ;-)

• The final duct run entry into the dust collector should be straight pipe and not an elbow or branch fitting. Minimum of 3
times diameter of straight pipe, for example 8" diameter x 3 = 24" straight pipe.
 
??? think about it ;-)

• The final duct run entry into the dust collector should be straight pipe and not an elbow or branch fitting. Minimum of 3
times diameter of straight pipe, for example 8" diameter x 3 = 24" straight pipe.

Wish that it was so. From the DC the next stop is an Oneida Super Dust Deputy. No way (that I can figure) to get there without first going up and then over. Essentially 3 90* turns. I figured that the smoothe 6" 90's would be better than making those same turns in a section of flex pipe. I know the 90's introduce resistance, but thought this might be the best compromise.

Open to other suggestions!
 
There's the ideal . . . and then there's my shop :D. We do the best we can given space and layout. I still have a modified bagger that serves my jointer because I just can't get "over there" from the cyclone without making so many turns I wouldn't have much oomph left by the time I got there. I'll try to do better in the next (and hopefully last) shop. Unless you go the route where you mount the blower over the separator you are indeed stuck in making that sort of big 'S' run to get from the floor to the top of the separator. We can only do so much before diminishing returns make further effort a bit of a waste. Ever onward!
 
I kinda do the same on mine Rennie, except I'm using a 22.5* or 45* at the bottom of my stack, then about a 2' section of 4" to get to the DC. It's worked fine, but like Glenn there is probably some loss of efficiency that just didn't let me get all the way over to my CNC table, where the extra 12' of run and elbows added up to too much loss. So I simply just run a shop vac on it. It's one area of efficiency to consider if you're the system isn't pulling as much as you like when it's done.
 
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