The "Next" Workbench - I Think I'm Done

[glenn bradley]

Well finally time to post about the “next” workbench. I call it the “next” workbench because it’s better than what I had but not as nice as I will probably build one day.

Using ShopNotes Vol. 15 Issue 89 as a guide I went with layered MDF for the top. I laid waxed paper on my TS deck (as it is the flattest thing in my shop) and went at it:

First two layers are full size; dry fit here with screws to allow flush routing:



First two glued up (I used whatever was at hand for weights):



Second two layers are in parts to save material. This approach turned out to be useless for me as I decided on multiple rows of dog holes and had to increase the size of the “parts” to where four full size layers would have been less work:



After deciding on the vise positions and drilling the mounting holes I flipped it onto a temporary platform to add the trim. Here’s the old extend-o pipe clamp trick:



Can you ever have enough clamps?



I clamped some scrap to the frame pieces for router support. After free-handing the original pocket to a depth of 1/4" I used a dado clean out bit to finish to required depth.



Here's a shot of one of the vises mounted and in the pocket. The last piece of trim is not on yet (or should I 'Norm-out' and say "removed for clarity"?).



I'll post more here once the top is done. I'll post the base after construction begins.

[Steve Clardy]

Looking good

Thats going to be a heavy, durable top

[Don Taylor]

That's heavy duty stuff there Glenn!

DT

[glenn bradley]

I knew this one would drag on as I'm a bit of a slow mover. The top is pretty much ready to apply the BLO.

Hand plane brought the trim flush with the top.



Front vise face is beech.



Tail vise ditto.



Ready to BLO and start the stand.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Looking good, Glenn. I'll be looking forward to seeing the base go together.

[tod evans]

that ain`t gonna move!

[Stuart Ablett]

That should take some serious pounding for MANY years!!

[Jeff Horton]

Anxious to see how well the dog holes hold up and how flat it stays. I am assuming that is a pretty rigid top with 4 layers? How much support will it need under it to prevent any sagging? What kind of spacing between them?

Reason I ask is I want to build a new top for one of my benches. Primary goal is a flat top for assembly work. I do want vices and dog holes too so I am looking for solid top. I have been thinking SYP on edge. That way I can hand plane it flat once it is done and if it ever needs flattening again. I have that on my other bench and I am happy with it. But this is interesting too and no hand planing for days on end.

Jeff

[Bart Leetch]

I didn't see it so will ask did you make it so you'll have a 1/4" masonite replaceable top if not I believe you should have. Its real nice to be able to renew the top when it gets worn bringing the bench top back to like new.

I have another bench top that is just MDF wrapped with an edging that my CMS & small Drill-press & Mortiser set on & are operated on. Because I need to move the Drill-press forward when in use & back out of the way of the CMS when not in use I have noticed there are scratches in the MDF which is quite a bit softer than tempered Masonite.

Yes I have tempered Masonite on my bench top & yes it is scarred but it is several years older than the other bench top & has seen much harder use over many more years.

[glenn bradley]

Hi Bart,

I have a rolling worktable with a replaceable Masonite top and am really glad I made it that way. Although it hasn't needed changing yet it will be easy to do when required.

My original plan was for dog holes in the workbench top and after a brief waffling over maybe using t-track, I am back with the original idea. I was concerned that the side pressure of the bench dogs would push the 'floating' hardboard top into the capturing trim.

This could be solved by making the holes in the HB a little oversize but then I was faced with keeping debris from between the surfaces. In the end I went without the HB. If I gouge the top brutally . . . bondo or epoxy could save the day. A piece of HB could also be added with little modification to the trim if the MDF becomes prematurely beat up.