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The New Bandsaw...............

Stu,

I think it's just a cast in stiffener. My old grizzly 16" (real old) has a rib much like that too. The tilt mechanism takes a good bit of stress when you consider the blade tension and all so a stiffener of some sort, especially on a aluminum or pot metal part, makes sense. You probubly already thought of this, but the channel for your blade tension ajuster needs to be good and smooth and the ends of the slot should have a bit of a back bevel to keep the steel from shaving off the adjuster each time you move it.

Mike
 
stu, you have a welder-n-drillpress.....why are you planning to use pot metal or aluminum for your adjustment?
 
M Toupin said:
Stu,

I think it's just a cast in stiffener. My old grizzly 16" (real old) has a rib much like that too. The tilt mechanism takes a good bit of stress when you consider the blade tension and all so a stiffener of some sort, especially on a aluminum or pot metal part, makes sense. You probubly already thought of this, but the channel for your blade tension ajuster needs to be good and smooth and the ends of the slot should have a bit of a back bevel to keep the steel from shaving off the adjuster each time you move it.

Mike
Click to expand...

Yeah I have thought of it Mike, but thanks just the same!
 
tod evans said:
stu, you have a welder-n-drillpress.....why are you planning to use pot metal or aluminum for your adjustment?
Click to expand...

Geez you like making work for me Tod! :D

I figure that with the right support, this set up will work fine, but I have to admit, now you got me thinking of "Other" ways to do it :rolleyes: :doh: :bang: :rofl:

Thanks.....................I think.......... :huh:
 
Stuart Ablett said:
Geez you like making work for me Tod! :D

I figure that with the right support, this set up will work fine, but I have to admit, now you got me thinking of "Other" ways to do it :rolleyes: :doh: :bang: :rofl:

Thanks.....................I think.......... :huh:
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it`d be a shame to put all this work into a saw and have a salvaged piece of pot metal fail......
 
tod evans said:
it`d be a shame to put all this work into a saw and have a salvaged piece of pot metal fail......
Click to expand...

It would just be another bit I'd have to fix :rolleyes:

I guess I could use the steel shaft and pin, and bin the aluminium part, as well, I can get the same tension spring that goes on Big Blue localy, it was something like $20, which will Tension any blade I ever put on that sucker to the point of breaking, I'd think (Big Blue's tension spring is L-A-R-G-E).......

There you went and did it now.......:doh:

Thanks:wave:
 
Toupin got it correct.

Thats just a gusset/stiffner for support to keep the tab from possibly breaking.

Use it. Its lasted for almost 20 years already. Why make another one?
 
Steve Clardy said:
Toupin got it correct.

Thats just a gusset/stiffner for support to keep the tab from possibly breaking.

Use it. Its lasted for almost 20 years already. Why make another one?
Click to expand...

Well if it were to break, I'd just say that you wore it out Steve :D

Lots to do yet, I'm not sure of my plan of action, might just use what I got, so I can get it together and git back at the long list of stuff I got to do! :rolleyes:

Cheers!
 
OK, I've decided to use the part that came with, as Steve said, it has done well so far, and I see the even Delta uses an aluminum one :dunno:

I built the "Holder" for the top wheel tension and tracking adjustment mechanism , I put two pieces of 1/4" plate inside the top part of the frame, and welded them flush, then I put the adjuster in there, and marked where the next two pieces, spacers I guess should go. I then checked everything for square and such, and welded them in place.

mock_up_top_adjuster_holder_2nd_plate.jpg
Here you can see the first two layers of plate, the back layer (which is only welded a bit on the front side, but will get welded all the way around on both sides when I'm sure of the fit etc). and then the second two plates, which will act as a space for the adjuster to fit into..........

mock_up_top_adjuster.jpg
...... like this. Next, two wider pieces of plate will go over top, they will NOT be welded in place, but they will be bolted in place, this will allow me to remove the adjuster for any reason that comes up, I'm thinking spring replacemten, for example.

mock_up_top_adjuster3rd_plate.jpg
Here is one of the second plate, with me just holding it in place.......
(BTW, the top tension knob would really be in a bad spot there for adjusting the tension, so I already have plans to drill a hole in the frame, and extend the tension rod up above the top of the saw, through the frame, then put a lever on it, not a knob)
mock_up_top_wheel.jpg
I've drilled some holes and I'm using some small bolts to hold things in place, so I can check everything for square and the distance between the wheel hubs and such.

mock_up_wheels.jpg
Here are the two wheels in place, this is just a mock up, using clamps etc, but I checked the measurement on between the two hubs and it was nearly spot on.

Now looking at the size of them 14" wheels, compared to the size of the tubular frame, does anyone think it will not be stout enough? :D

I hope to get at this some more on Sunday morning, as I have a full day today and most of tomorrow with deliveries to the local festival.

Well, what do you think? :wave:
 
Stuart Ablett said:
...I hope to get at this some more on Sunday morning, as I have a full day today and most of tomorrow with deliveries to the local festival.

Well, what do you think? :wave:
Click to expand...
Well, I think you guys sure have a lot of festivals over there. :rofl:

The bandsaw's looking good to my untrained eye. :thumb:
 
Looking really good Stu :thumb:

Will the lower bearing housing/bracket be adjustable, to square up the wheel shaft to the frame?
 
Steve Clardy said:
Looking really good Stu :thumb:

Will the lower bearing housing/bracket be adjustable, to square up the wheel shaft to the frame?
Click to expand...

Thanks.

yeah, I'll be accomplishing that by having the holes on the bearing saddle a bit large sized, and being able to move it around. The bearing saddle can also be shimmed front to back. Big Blue is set up this way, works for that large resaw, should work for the Phoenix :thumb:

I also got some special "HIGH GRADE" strong bolts for this, they were about $3 each, plus the lock washers and the nuts, maybe $5 a bolt :eek:

Cheers!
 
Band Saw Parts on eBay

Stu,

Don't know if this will help you any (due to shipping to Japan)......

But I was just surfing through eBay under Band Saws, and there were alot of Delta-Rockwell 14in band saw parts for sale there.
 
Thanks Sean, I think that I have everything I need, and yeah, shipping is always a problem, not to mention, the vast majority of sellers in the US will not ship outside the US, they act like I'm in another universe, not country :dunno:

Cheers!
 
Stuart Ablett said:
I guess the throat will be about 14", limited to the wheel size, and the resaw will be about 12" I guess...?

Dunno yet, still working on how to attach the table etc :huh: :dunno:

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Looking good, Stu, but I am wondering why you put the wheel arbor so far back toward the spine of the machine? With the 14" dia wheel, to get nearly 14" of throat cut, the back (non cutting track of the blade) would need to be almost even with the throat side of the spine, and just guessing from looking at the pictures, it seems that you have lost about 2" of that, giving only about 12" or less of throat depth.
 
Just a "Photoshopped" thought here, but the most common complaint I hear about bandsaws is that frame is not stiff enough to tension the blades, right?

Well, I'm not mechanical engineer, so I've not done the math to figure out the strength of my frame, but like Larry says in his sig line.....

"When in doubt, build it stout" :thumb:

What about an extra stiff back..........something like this.....

stiff_double_back.jpg

I have the steel, I bought too much :rolleyes: and all it would take would be some grinding of paint and some welding....?

Sure would remove any doubt about the frame being "Stiff" enough, don't you think :rolleyes: :D :headbang:

Cheers!
 
Stuart Ablett said:
Just a "Photoshopped" thought here, but the most common complaint I hear about bandsaws is that frame is not stiff enough to tension the blades, right?

Well, I'm not mechanical engineer, so I've not done the math to figure out the strength of my frame, but like Larry says in his sig line.....

"When in doubt, build it stout" :thumb:

What about an extra stiff back..........something like this.....

View attachment 8798

I have the steel, I bought too much :rolleyes: and all it would take would be some grinding of paint and some welding....?

Sure would remove any doubt about the frame being "Stiff" enough, don't you think :rolleyes: :D :headbang:

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Wouldn't be anything wrong with that at all, Stu. If you look back at my post early on, I mentioned that you could even add a couple of "Spine strips" for extra strength (where you show the extra tube in the picture). I think I would slide the tube up just a little higher though, as the bottom should be plenty stiff, (I assume you are going to fasten the two bottoms of those legs to a solid plate or something?)
 
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