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Thread: Osprey CNC upgrade

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Osprey CNC upgrade

    Well, this is the first real upgrade to my machine.

    I had predetermined this upgrade long before I bought this machine. When I was machine shopping this upgrade was one of the top reasons for wanting the rack and pinion system. The insides of the machine are W I D E open.

    Also one of the reasons for the height of the feet I put under the machine is so I could "fit" stuff inside the machine.

    Well here is the beginning of the upgrade.

    When I bought my smaller 24x24 machine for $250 it was on an aluminum extrusion frame table. The 3" square extrusion as well as other sizes made up the WAY oversized table. The top was a 5/8 thick 6061-t6 plate. The aluminum alone is with well over $1500.

    Sooo - I cut the 3" 8020 to fit inside as cross members. I am going to bolt it to the steel machine frame with 1/2-20 hi strength bolts and 1/4 steel plate as washers. It's going to be an engineering overkill, but hay - it's what I can do.


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    I removed the "T" track table top. There are 14 sections. I will cut the sections to make the front part of the machine available without removing the back section. OR They could be opened independently.


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    I do NOT plan to mount my Porter Cable dovetail jig in the machine - this is just to show some intent.

    I DO plan to build a more versatile fixture to mount on the machine as I need it.

    The new Aluminum Extrusion cross members allows for vertical clamping. The machine bed allows for horizontal clamping.

    I am finally getting to building kitchen cabinets and there will be many drawers. To start I am building two cabinets with 4 drawers each. I want to get the machine upgraded to make the drawer dovetails.

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    If I really needed to I could put this whole cabinet in the machine and do CNC to it.


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    This is the stuff I was thinking of when I was thinking about upgrading from the 24xc24 machine.

    I ordered all the nuts and bolts and other hardware I need. McMaster is so fast I am sure I will have a lot of it next week.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    It will be really interesting to see some of the cabinet work as it goes, that's one area of CNC I can really see the possibilities but can't quite visualize how they should be done.

    The mounting options your modification provides is pretty interesting. Having all that space to move things around seems like it offers a ton of really interesting possibilities for doing large batch jobs at weird angles..
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Kansas City, Missouri
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    Very cool Leo. I've got a little overhang of my spindle an have always thought about doing a dovetail setup there. I'm currently doing some drawings for cutting stiles for louvered doors, which will need some holding jigs.

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    Darren

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  4. #4
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    Interesting project, Leo. It'll be interesting to see it in action!
    Bill Arnold
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    Live every day like it's your last, but don't forget to stop and smell the roses.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    GTA Ontario Canada
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    Very cool Leo, i like overkill

    Just a thought but since u have the machine you have nothing is stopping you from machining your own full width dovetail template based on the porter cable unit. This way you could have say three draw sides mounted at once and be changing over parts while the machine is onto the next one. Would be heck of a productive and no down time once setup. I bet to set that up for a guy like u would not take much.

    You should take look at what Frank Howarth is doing with his on his youtube channel. He did something similar iircc.
    Here is a link to his new self build kit he put together. You need to look at some of his stuff since this for clamping.
    cheers

  6. #6
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    I watch a bunch of fellow CNC shops. I have watched Frank for a few years. He is in process of building a new CNC routerparts machine. He may have finished it by now. There are others also. I also like what Roger Webb does. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVb...YQjwxYQ/videos.

    First time for me, but I did cut out the 2 four drawer cabinet carcasses on the machine. I had a full sheet of 3/4 Pine Ply on the machine, and on the table saw (outfeed table?). I did it in sections, but had it all laid out on full sheet. Scrap was minimal. Not much usable out of the scrapwood. It is incredible how well that worked out. I measured the plywood at .704, I cut the dados at .710 The fits were great, flat, square, parallel, perpendicular. Assembly, was perfect. Cutting out the carcase parts took MAX 1/2 hour, including dados and rabits. I did the sides, back, spacers, top and bottom shelfs and toekick. The backs were out of 3/8 and the rest was 3/4 (.704). I have a 92" pantry cabinet next.

    It was a WORLD easier that trying to muscle a 4 x 8 sheet of ply on a table saw, jig it up on horses with guides, router dado guides and all of that sort of thing. Heck, the traditional can be saved for the knuckle draggers. All I want is nice cabinets. For that matter, I don't really care to make cabinets, I just happen to need them and I cannot afford to buy the ones I want.

    Of course there are parts that are better done on the table saw and miter saw. The face frames never saw the CNC. I like to 1/8 roundover all the corners. The router table is better suited for that.

    Like I have said before, CNC is just one of the many machines in the shop.

    For the drawers I can do the Porter Cable jig. Works great and is pretty foolproof.

    I have ideas for other stuff as well as standard doves for drawers. There are other interesting sorts on joints and cool stuff. Imagination takes over sometimes. (eyes rolling around in the head)

    I can pretty much easily work on something full 4' long mounted vertical, maybe a little more. Table to floor is about 35" + 10" inches between table and bottom of gantry + about 10" of "Z" axis travel + or - tool length and maybe squeeze a little more with some creative ingenuity and crossed fingers.

  7. #7
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    So when you're cutting the cabinet parts on the CNC you're just using an upcut bit or?? No problems with tearout on the edges?

    It seems like this would be the bees knees for euro style faceless cabinets, you could cut & do the 32mm setup very very cleanly..
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

  8. #8
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    That's great Leo. Really adds a lot of versatility.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Mooney View Post
    So when you're cutting the cabinet parts on the CNC you're just using an upcut bit or?? No problems with tearout on the edges?

    It seems like this would be the bees knees for euro style faceless cabinets, you could cut & do the 32mm setup very very cleanly..
    The world I have lived in for the past 40 years has called it a right hand spiral 30 degree helix solid carbide end mill. But yeah an upcut bit. If it is sharp there is little to no tearout. I put the panel face down, so that I can also cut the dados and rabits with the same cutter at the same time. I use a 1/4 inch cutter for the entire job. With panels face down the net result is the same as a down cut bit on the cutout for the face. Wow that sounds muddy clear. Only one setup, for the complete piece with dados and rabits.

    Not sure yet on the Euro hinge pockets - maybe. Cutting the pocket would be very clean. I would just need a fixture, but that is simple to do. Yeah, this is sounding like the thing to do. Jostling the door panels around on a drill press is also a bit of a pain.

  10. #10
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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Voisine View Post
    The world I have lived in for the past 40 years has called it a right hand spiral 30 degree helix solid carbide end mill. But yeah an upcut bit.
    I live in a slightly simpler world in that regard so forgive me...

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Voisine View Post
    I put the panel face down, so that I can also cut the dados and rabits with the same cutter at the same time. I use a 1/4 inch cutter for the entire job. With panels face down the net result is the same as a down cut bit on the cutout for the face. Wow that sounds muddy clear. Only one setup, for the complete piece with dados and rabits.
    Yeah makes sense - you're more or less guaranteeing a clean cut on the face with this setup...

    Quote Originally Posted by Leo Voisine View Post
    Not sure yet on the Euro hinge pockets - maybe. Cutting the pocket would be very clean. I would just need a fixture, but that is simple to do. Yeah, this is sounding like the thing to do. Jostling the door panels around on a drill press is also a bit of a pain.
    Yeah I was just thinking production wise you can drill the pin holes and cut the hinge pockets and ... all in one pass... which would be pretty amazing! Even doing it as a second pass, you just need a indexing fixture which ends up pretty crazy fast in comparison to most alternative solutions.
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

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