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Thread: Osprey CNC upgrade

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Freeetown, Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,946
    Well, I tried something new today.

    As part of the upgrade I needed to cut access holes into the welded steel frame. The steel is low carbon steel and not all that thick. It should be a piece of cake, but these routers are not machining centers and not really designed to cut steel.

    So the cutting parameters

    1) I just happened to have - 5 flute SGS TiAln coated end mills.
    2) I ran at 8000 RPM
    3) I ran about 20 IPM
    4) I used a spiral ramp infeed at .002 DOC
    5) I used Tap Magic cutting fluid

    No problem at all.

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    The hole is 1" wide x 3" long.

    I will be bolting the 8020 with 2 - 1/2-20 High strength bolts. I am making special washers that are 1/4 thick 1" wide and 3" long. Each washer will have 2 holes for the bolts. The bolts will go through the 3" square 8020 extrusion with the special washers and very very very tight.

    All of this so I can make CNC dovetail joints. I have seen some really cool joints out there. I will not be bound to the restrictions of a template.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Yorktown, Virginia
    Posts
    4,887
    Wow! That cut cleanly. No chatter or excessive heat. Very nice.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kansas City, Missouri
    Posts
    13,192
    That will work! I hadn't done any metal until last year on mine, just did some aluminum, but won't hesitate to do it again. I will work out a better splash pan before doing it again, other than the mess it cut well.
    Darren

    To a small child, the perfect granddad is unafraid of big dogs and fierce storms but absolutely terrified of the word “boo.” – Robert Brault

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    The Gorge Area, Oregon
    Posts
    4,616
    Love thy neighbor, yet pull down not thy hedge.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Freeetown, Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,946
    I have more pics and videos but have not had time to compile a youtube session.

    Some history that is not shone here:
    The TEE slot segments on the table are all individual segments that are 2" wide and about 54" long.
    I cut them in half and added new 10-32 countersunk holes. The cut was 1/8 wide and I moved the front segments 1/8 north to but against the now new rear segments. I did not cut the two outer segments. That made the fronts uneven.

    I trimmed the front with my circular saw.

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    Though not as neat as I would have liked, it is pretty neat.

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    Then I used the machine to drill all the new tap holes.
    I tapped all 36 holes with my Bosch Battery drill. Made short work of it as it was 10 seconds at best to tap each of the 36 10-32 tapped holes.

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    Made a new access hole in the right side same as left side.

    When I put in the bolts I could not fit the 3/4 socket in the access hole. I just turned on the spindle and manually moved the machine with the hand pendant and widened the access holes like the machine was a Bridgeport. No problem - very simple.

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    All ready for the next stage of the operation. Locating the 3" square extruded beams.

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    I roughly located and held in place with clamps.
    In this view you can see the access slots I made in the extrusion. I made the slots on all 4 sides so I could insert the "T" nuts into the "T" slots in the extrusion. I will have ready access; top, bottom, front, back on both sides. Plenty of places to be clamping.


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    In order to get the beam in alignment with the "X" axis I lowered the spindle in the bracket on the "Z" axis and used a 10" long drill to get down under the table to help with the alignment. I gently touched the extrusion so the drill turned freely by hand and just touching the extrusion. I then zeroed out the "Y" axis, backed the "Y" away and moved "X" to opposite end of extrusion. I then moved "Y" back to zero and moved the extrusion to gently touch. I clamped and rechecked both sides. I would call that, within .001-.002 in about 48".

    I then transferred the hole pattern from the extrusion that I previously drilled onto the machine frame. I drilled the 1/2 holed in the frame from underneath with my battery drill and a 1/4" bit. From that I put a 1/2 but in my battery drill and opened the holes through the access holes from above.

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    I put the 1/2-20 fine thread high strength bolts in the access holes. I previously made some 1/4 CRS spacer washers to span the extrusion so I could crank the torque on the bolts and not crush the extrusion.

    Used the drill alignment again and got the extrusion back to the .001-.002 alignment.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    In order to align the top extrusion and bottom extrusion I needed a "PRECISION" square. This is to align the top and bottom extrusions to be perpendicular to the table. I "know" that cutting the square on my machine is better than my flimsy framing square. It is FAR more precise on the 90 degree. I sanded it and rounded the edges a little. When I am done I will 1/8 roundover the whole thing on the router table. I may do some fancy "V" grooving and will Poly it. After all this IS a really nice square. 24" inside, 28" outside.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is how the square will be used.

    In my estimation, this vertical champing is much nicer than Frank Hogsworths vertical clamping.

    More to follow.
    Last edited by Leo Voisine; 04-03-2017 at 02:11 AM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Yorktown, Virginia
    Posts
    4,887

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