Larry's Lacquer

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OK seeing as the great traveler is still out and about, what lacquer does Larry use. He told me the name but old age has taken it's toll. All I got is Sherwin Williams.
 
I am not sure what Larry uses, but if you need to get started, here is my 2 cents worth

Back when I used solvent based nitrocellulose (ordinary) lacquer, I could not see the difference in brands, and most often used Sherwin Williams. Add 30-50% lacquer thinner despite the package claim that thinning isn't required. Catalyzer can be added at the store, which makes the lacquer harder, but shortens the shelf life.

For the past 5-10 years I have used Target Coatings EM6000, which is the only water based lacquer that I have found with full burn in. (Lots of others claim they have burn in, then tell you to sand between coats - proof that they are lying).
 
Like Charlie, I've been using Target Coatings products for most of my finishing. Got started with them 10-12 years ago. I start with a coat of EM1000 sealer and sand it as needed. I always spray EM6000 Gloss to get the depth I want, then spray a final top coat of EM6000 Semi-Gloss or Satin, depending on the project.

I've also used Target Coatings waterborne dewaxed shellac on a few things as a sanding sealer when I want to add a little amber color.
 
Like Charlie, I've been using Target Coatings products for most of my finishing. Got started with them 10-12 years ago. I start with a coat of EM1000 sealer and sand it as needed. I always spray EM6000 Gloss to get the depth I want, then spray a final top coat of EM6000 Semi-Gloss or Satin, depending on the project...

Another EM6000 user. I also use the sanding sealer, and sometimes put the EM6000 over dewaxed garnet shellac. I do scuff the shellac with green Scotchbrite before shooting the EM6000 on it.
 
Ok any problems spraying this stuff through an Earlex 5500? Any thing else I need to be told before I buy? Shelf life is how long?

It oughtta spray just fine. I use a gravity feed HVLP with a 1.2mm tip, and it flows very nicely.

Shelf life? I dunno, but I've got some that's over a year old, and it works just fine.
 
According to Jeff Jewitt (in an article a few years back) waterborne finishes have a shelf life of 2 years or less. That said, I did keep some Target coatings stuff for well over 4 years (small amount in a glass jar) and it was actually still good after that time. I did throw it out, but it may be prudent to be cautious. Jeff's article is still available on FWW, if you subscribe. Target's products are excellent, but you are limited to 1 gallon cans (I think) and they can be expensive.
 
According to Jeff Jewitt (in an article a few years back) waterborne finishes have a shelf life of 2 years or less. That said, I did keep some Target coatings stuff for well over 4 years (small amount in a glass jar) and it was actually still good after that time. I did throw it out, but it may be prudent to be cautious. Jeff's article is still available on FWW, if you subscribe. Target's products are excellent, but you are limited to 1 gallon cans (I think) and they can be expensive.

I haven't seen Jeff's article, but when I talked to him about EM8000CV where the CV stands for conversion varnish, which implies a catalyst, he assured me that I could count on well over a year, even though it was less than the other finishes. I have not had any problem with other Target finishes that are 3 or more years old. (I date them when I get them).

I only use gloss. If I want a satin finish, 600-800 grit gives it to me quickly and easily. If I want semigloss then use higher grit. For gloss, I fine sand just before the final coat then spray. If I get any flaws in the gloss (like pollen) I keep some 4000 grit to remove the flaws without visibly dulling the finish. That reduces the different inventory I have to keep.

I have bought the EM6000 lacquer in 5 gallon cans - at one point I counted more than 10 of them recycled for other purposes around my shop.

Yes they are expensive, especially when shipping is added, but well worth the cost IMHO. The frequent discounts take the pain away (often about equal to the shipping costs), but they still aren't cheap.
 
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