# Thread: L-shape cabinet design question

1. Matt Dunlap Guest

## L-shape cabinet design question

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Last edited by Matt Dunlap; 04-01-2008 at 12:37 AM.

2. Is this what you're describing?

I don't know of a formula and I think you'd end up with some funky sized doors if you want to make all of them and the stiles of consistent width. As I drew it the doors are 12" wide, end stiles on the long runs are 1 1/2" wide with 1" between doors. the stiles on the corner cabinet are almost 2" wide. (`1 61/64" is what SU tells me.) I'd be inclined to go with something like that or even make the door on the angled cabinet an inch wider than the others. I think that would look alright and being on an angle relative to the others, I don't think it would be noticeable.

3. Here you go, Matt. I hope this works for you.

4. Hi Matt and Dave,
Everybody has one so I thought I would insert my opinion here.
That SU is a magical tool.
Looking at Dave's rendering helped me see what I would modify. Hope this simple drawing makes sense to you. I can see clearly now...
Shaz

5. I hear music in my head.

So Robert, if I read your drawing correctly, you would have 1" between the doors on the legs of the L and the diagonal door? Would that be 1" measured straight between doors or 1/2" on each stile half? and I assume you'd let the diagonal door be what it will be for width?

I thought about making the stiles on the diagonal portion a predetermined width but decided from a construction point of view that it would be easier to make the door parts some easy size and leave the two stiles to be ripped to the oddball width. One process to do that on the face frame stiles but two on the door parts. (Ripping the panel and cross cutting the rails, well, if the door is of frame and panel construction.)

6. Originally Posted by Dave Richards
I hear music in my head.

So Robert, if I read your drawing correctly, you would have 1" between the doors on the legs of the L and the diagonal door?( the dimension here would be 1" at the visible point of each door, that being from door corner to door corner and the outtermost points) Would that be 1" measured straight between doors (yes, it would probably show 1" either side of the diagonal door on the flat and a slight return toward the leg doors so as to create the 1" space between doors at the surface level) or 1/2" on each stile half? and I assume you'd let the diagonal door be what it will be (yes) for width?( "The rain is gone" ...I would make the distance between the doors on the legs 1" that is correct,

I thought about making the stiles on the diagonal portion a predetermined width but decided from a construction point of view that it would be easier to make the door parts some easy size and leave the two stiles to be ripped to the oddball width.( I agree with your thinking here, on the doors but not for the stiles and rails of the cabinet, but then we all do things differently. ) One process to do that on the face frame stiles but two on the door parts. (Ripping the panel and cross cutting the rails, well, if the door is of frame and panel construction.)
Hi Dave,
I don't do the face frames, never have but then I don't do origamy either. . My plan in 95% of my wood working is function first, design and aesthetics second and ease of construction last. This has caused some great challenges, but some great woodworking victories and opened doors to creative solutions I might never have realized.
Shaz

7. Originally Posted by Matt Dunlap
Thanks for the file Dave.

I think I see what Robert is trying to achieve as far as balance for the eyes. But, I'm planning on building it in sections and hanging the corner section first, then the sides. To me, Robert's sketch would only work if I built the entire cabinet as one.

This thing will be built in my shop and then transported a few miles to the location. Besides the transportation problems of moving it as one cabinet versus sections, then the manuvering through the house to get it to location is problematic as well trying to hang the whole thing solo.
Hi Matt,
The way I would do it is to build the left leg with the corner unit attached to it. Then on site I would either hang that piece then butt the right leg to it or I would make it one piece on the ground mark my studs, call in my part time buddies and hang the sucker in one piece.
Shaz

8. matt depending on what your after u could take and build like shz has shown but break in two like he mentioned and put eh smaller of the two up first. you could also split it in thirds as you expressed the junction between the the corner and the straights could be minimised to frame width so as to appear the same. if that is what yur after.

9. Steve Clardy Guest
Matt. Do you plan on making the back of the corner cabinet a 45?

Most wall corners are not square, so this lets the cabinet be more square when hanging it.
Last edited by Steve Clardy; 08-06-2008 at 06:16 PM.

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