iBox Project

Jim DeLaney

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I needed a box/case for my new small HVLP gun, so I put this together.

Baltic Birch ply, box-jointed. I love that iBox! Slickest (and easiest) way to make those joints, for sure.

DSCN0639 (Small).JPG DSCN0638 (Small).JPG DSCN0640 (Small).JPG

The fitted insert is FastCap's 'Kaizen' foam. First time I've used it. It's very easy to cut and fit. I'll be using it a lot in the future.
 
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Well done, you really got that foam cut out nicely as well.

I'd worked with 'regular' (upholstery) foam before, and hated it. It was always a mess, appearance-wise. I saw a FastCap demo (Hartville Hardware) of the Kaizen foam, and decided another try was in order. The Kaizen stuff is layered in about 1/8" layers, and has a harder surface texture than 'regular' foam. I was happily surprised at how easy it was to cut, tear, and form to make the cut-outs for the various pieces.

I'll be using it more in the future.

BTW, it comes in 2' X 4' sheets, in several thicknesses. With this small project, I have plenty left over for future use.
 
A great looking box!!

I also make boxes, a lot of boxes of all shapes and sizes, and usually I also make them from BB plywood with my I-Box jig (I know the I-Box inventor), but sometimes I use re-sawn thin flat hardwood board stock. You may already know the following info, but here are what I frequently use when making boxes using the Incra I-Box jig. Hopefully, one or more of these tips will help you. I get great satisfaction when making boxes. I guess that's why I make so many.

I use the Freud SBOX8 box joint blade set. Since buying it I haven't used my DADO blade at all, but will probably use it again for larger boxes. The bottom of the cuts made with the SBOX8 blade are perfectly flat and fit together very well, making great 1/4 & 3/8" box joints

For smaller box joints I use a Freud LM72R010 blade and make 1/8" box joints. It's actually a ripping blade, but with an FTG grind for a perfectly flat bottom cut. The I-Box jig will adjust down to 1/8", but it takes a little coaxing.It's the smallest box joint that can be made with the I-Box jig.

Lee Valley makes some Box Slotting bits that are smaller in diameter than the usual slot cutting router bits http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=47818&cat=1,46168,46176s Using one of these bits in my router table lets me dry assemble the 4 sides of a box and then just run it around the bit to slot all four sides of the box all the way around without breaking through the box corners. The small diameter of the bit cuts into the box sides at the corners just enough so you only need to slightly round the box bottom or top corners for it to fit perfectly, with no corner gaps or the need for stopped DADO slots in the box sides. It's very fast and easy this way. I usually use large elastic bands or a band clamp to hold the box sides together while doing this.

It's easy to make replacement MDF backers for the I-Box jig from a 2' X 4' X 1/4" MDF Handy Panel that you can find at Home Depot, but just moving the original included backer from side to side or flipping it over and using the other edge will make it last a while. But like I said, I make a lot of boxes..For more backers, I just cut pieces of MDF the size of the original backer using my table saw. Then I set up end and back stops on my drill press to Drill the first hole position. With just the one setup for the first hole and then flipping the piece over and then end to end it's easy to drill all four holes with just the one setup. Then I clear away the stops and countersink all 4 of the holes from the smoothest side of the backers and they are done. I got about 14 backers from just one 2' X 4' X 1/4" Handy Panel of MDF that cost me about $5. Incra charges $10 plus shipping for just 3 of them. I had them cut, drilled, and countersunk in about 1/2 hour. I thought I would have enough to last me a while, but yesterday I discovered that I'm down to my last 3, so I'll be making more of them again very soon.

Charley
 
...I use the Freud SBOX8 box joint blade set...making great 1/4 & 3/8" box joints

For smaller box joints I use a Freud LM72R010 blade and make 1/8" box joints...

It's easy to make replacement MDF backers for the I-Box jig from a 2' X 4' X 1/4" MDF ...
Charley

I have the same Freud Set, and really like it

For 1/8" joints, I use a Freud LU-82 rip blade. Nice square topped grind. Makes nice joints.

I also use the ¼" mdf for replacement backers. Easy to make, and WAY cheaper.
 
I had never seen this jig before. Wow - really cool. Made a few of my own box jigs with OK results, but that requires a new jig for each size joint. This is a huge step above them. I put this on my Amazon wish list. Maybe someday.


PS. Oh, and your box is nice too. :thumb::D
 
Here are a few of the boxes that I've made. All of these were made at the same time, hence the same finish treatment. The first is a gun case. The padding holds the gun in place when the latch is closed. I had considered a fitted insert, b ut the gun owner liked it this way. The other two are tool boxes for my shop. The purchase of the CRB7 jig prompted this 3 box build because I was a bit worried that I might loose some of the pieces if I didn't make a box for it, but then decided to also make the box for the I-Box jig because all good tools deserve a good box. Now, just yesterday, I ordered a new option for the CRB7 and I'm wondering if it will fit in the box or if I'll have to make another box.

Charley
 

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