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Thread: What's missing?

  1. #1
    Don Taylor is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    What's missing?

    Ok, I am trying to make the proverbial silk purse out of a Sow's ear.



    I have replaced the kickstand on this thing. It had to have sat in water for at least 20 years, maybe even 50.



    I was going to put roller bearing slides on the drawer and get rid of the cheap kitchen type rollers. I have never installed any type of drawer slide before. So off I go with my instructions from some long forgotten place on the web.
    Right away I found out they were right. Buy your drawer slides "Before" you build your cabinet. I had several choices. I could re-build the drawer, make a new drawer or notch the cabinet sides. I opted to notch the sides of the drawer slot and build up a framework attached to the cabinet sides to support the drawer and a lot more weight.
    Needless to say, I botched it big time. The cabinet sides are maybe 3/16" thick. There was nothing there to secure support to. By the time I beefed it all up I could build my own cabinets and have exactly what I wanted to begin with.
    So-o-o-o I plugged the notches removed the supports and re-installed the roller that was on it. It does work a bit better now that it has been re-positioned a bit and tightened up.
    If anyone installed cabinets like this in my kitchen I would HAVE to shoot them.

    There is one shelf in this cabinet. I wanted to make it come all the way to the front. Doing that would make the bottom of the cabinet rather inaccessible.
    So-o-o-o-o (again ) I decided to make the bottom of the cabinet come to me.

    The problem is, something is bugging the stuffin' out of me. I feel like I'm missing something. Before I extend the shelf, sand this thing up, make the cabinet interior nice looking and add the slides to the bottom of the tray, anyone want to take a shot at what's missing? This cabinet does have doors.









    I have the 24" PC Dovetail Jig. I intend to make the top 37" long to support it. I'll keep the router and accessories on the sliding tray and divide the tray off with sections to fit each device. The top shelf will be for templates and what ever goes with the jig. A good set of the red WoodCraft double brake wheels and I'll be good to go.

    Thanks for any suggestions

    DT

  2. #2
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    hey don make the other shelf bigger like the bottom one and have it roll out as well who ever thought half shelfs were good idea didnt make much sense..the rollout guy made more sense and use of the space
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  3. #3
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    That is a great idea Larry! It will cost more but from now on I think that I will have all roll out shelves on all of my lower cabinets. Whatever I need is always in the back.

  4. #4
    Don Taylor is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    hey don make the other shelf bigger like the bottom one and have it roll out as well who ever thought half shelfs were good idea didnt make much sense..the rollout guy made more sense and use of the space
    Sounds easy enough to me Larry. Thanks
    I'm going to dowel the new half shelf on and support it up front behind the face.

    I was wondering if I might have to extend the wheels out from the carcass like they do a drill press base for balance. I'm going to try it without that first. The trick will be getting to the wheel brakes easily.

    DT

  5. #5
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    you could take and have the frt set down on the floor with a solide rubber base and just have a lift lever like the moveable bases for larger machines have, or you could and take and have the frt lock and the back one solide.
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  6. #6
    Don Taylor is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    That's a good idea Larry but not in the cards for me. My problem is, I lose my air and can't breathe. You would be amazed at how much air you use in a hand truck type situation. I've set everything up to just scoot across the floor. That is the easy part. The more difficult part is setting them up to stay ridgid when I get them where I want them. So far though, I've been able to make everything work.

    DT

  7. #7
    In my humble opinion....

    Why the kick stand? Leave less of a foot and when the drawers are extended it may tip forward. The kick stand (as you call it) is for when units are mounted to a wall. You mention rollers so I assume you plan to move it about. You will need to make the base as far forward as possible. to keep the folcrum of any leverage from extended drawers, far enough forward to equalize the cabinet weight to the drawer weight (loaded with equipment & supplies) . The casters will allow place for your toes when you address the equipment, so you don't need the "Kick Stand". Go ahead and make a new base but the full size of the cabinet.

    I too would slide both shelves, unless the item to be placed on the slider is too tall and needs the extra height.

  8. #8
    Don Taylor is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Simpson View Post
    In my humble opinion....

    Why the kick stand? Leave less of a foot and when the drawers are extended it may tip forward. The kick stand (as you call it) is for when units are mounted to a wall. You mention rollers so I assume you plan to move it about. You will need to make the base as far forward as possible. to keep the folcrum of any leverage from extended drawers, far enough forward to equalize the cabinet weight to the drawer weight (loaded with equipment & supplies) . The casters will allow place for your toes when you address the equipment, so you don't need the "Kick Stand". Go ahead and make a new base but the full size of the cabinet.

    I too would slide both shelves, unless the item to be placed on the slider is too tall and needs the extra height.
    POOF! That's my head scratcher!!
    Thank you Bill!
    I knew something wasn't right. It was the "Can't see the forest for the Trees" syndrome.
    If I knock that thing off there and make a tight cradle similar to a mobile base, that would answer my stability problems, get the wheels/brakes out from under the cabinet and add a lot of strength to the bottom! I'll also be able get the almost two inch height difference back to match the other two base cabinets. Not that it matters for the given applications but uniformity is a good thing to me.
    If you look at the orignal post, I was concerned about stability from side to side. I guess I didn't bang my head against the work table hard enough to see the front to back problem.

    Thank you again.
    Thank all of you
    What a great place to be

    DT

  9. #9
    Don Taylor is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Ok, I got the shelf extended. I can't believe I got it in there so tight and was still able to dowel the two together. When you are fixing trash with trash a big hammer will work every time.

    You can see where I tried a blotch of stain on the tray. Not exactly the same color but it will work just fine.







    And now it is Nap time.

    DT
    Last edited by Don Taylor; 05-29-2007 at 01:41 AM.

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