Workbench Finish?

Doug Sinjem

Member
Messages
400
Location
La Habra Hts. CA
I'm taking apart and redoing my old Veritas workbench. It's probably at least 12 years old. Does anyone have recommendations on what type of finsih I should put on the top? Also what about sides, legs, strechers etc. It's solid maple.

Doug
 
Thanks Bart,
I've heard of Watco...but isn't there different types, stains etc? I'm not really up on all the current finishing processes. Could you elaborate a little.

Doug
 
I think Bart's referring to Watco Danish Oil. I know a lot of guys just go with boiled linseed oil (BLO) on their benches. It offers some protection, but is very easy to touch up down the road. If you're looking for something more impervious and tough, something like water-based poly (like Minwax Polycrylic) would work, but future touch-ups will show up a bit more. (But it's a workbench, so that may not be important to you.) I've used Polycrylic on a number of my jigs and sleds around the shop, and so far haven't had a need to fix any worn spots. It's tough stuff.
 
doug, i use lacquer........no specific sheen, just what`s in the gun if i remember. my bench gets beaten-n-abused so having a finish that will melt into itself that i use on most projects is the easiest way for me to keep it kinda up........tod
 
The problem with many of the suggestions is that the veritas bench already comes with a heavy finish. Unless you are prepared to sand off that finish, you need to touch up the bench with something that is compatible. You certainly can't just apply Danish Oil or any other oil over the existing finish.

I think that the existing finish is lacquer, but you should check with Lee Valley.
 
Frank I took the whole thing apart and planed it down just enough to clean it up. I just want to get the whole thing sealed.


Doug
That's good!

So Doug, now that you can use anything, I would recommend about 6 coats of Tung Oil (mixed with a very small amount of Japan Drier to spead up the drying process). That's what I am going to do on the maple bench I am building.
 
That's good!

So Doug, now that you can use anything, I would recommend about 6 coats of Tung Oil (mixed with a very small amount of Japan Drier to spead up the drying process). That's what I am going to do on the maple bench I am building.


Frank I have heard of tung oil, actually seen David Marks use it alot on his projects. What is the advantage over the other suggested finishes?

Where would I purchase some? You said to add some dryer so am I right in assumming it's slow drying?

Also what is the preffered application method. Thanks for all the help.

Doug
 
I took some other's suggestions and used BLO and then paste wax to keep glue from sticking. If it gets too beat the BLO is easy to renew; just wipe down with some mineral spirits or other product to remove any residual wax before re-BLO-ing (is that an action word?). Then wax again when done.

If the bench is going to come back 'pretty' then other oils would work well and have a little more pizazz. Not sure about prices or if they're different enough to matter but I always have some BLO around so I chose that.
 
Frank I have heard of tung oil, actually seen David Marks use it alot on his projects. What is the advantage over the other suggested finishes?
I like the flat finish with the grain of the maple really showing through. It is easy repair marks and scratches. Most of all, I really like the bench that Hendrik Varju built and finished this way, so I am going to copy what he did.

Where would I purchase some? You said to add some dryer so am I right in assumming it's slow drying?
A lot of what is for sale is not pure tung oil. Lee Valley does sell it. See: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20049&cat=1,190,42942

It takes up to 4 days to dry without the Japan Drier additive. With the additive, it takes 24 hours. Any good paint store should sell Japan Drier. You don't need much

Also what is the preffered application method. Thanks for all the help.
Doug
Wipe on with a cloth. Wait 5 minutes. Rub off.
 
Doug,

I used McCloskey's Tung Oil Finish I bought from Highland Hardware on my maple bench. It's pure tung oil with some dryer's already added in. It worked great. I put on 6 coats and each coat dried in 24 hours or less. The advantage of tung oil (if you call it an advantage) is that, while it soaks into and cures in the wood like Danish oils, it builds to a nice luster with repeated coats. I applied mine as a wiping finish and wiped it on with an old T shirt. Easy. It is repairable, like Danish oil, just sand and reapply.

Hank
 
I used Polyurethane....Yes it scratches, etc. as they all do but on the rare occasion that the top is cleaned off and I am in the mood for a clean work environment.... I simply refesh with a coat of wipe-on Poly, Next morning it is so nice and shiny and pretty but the dents are still there and all but it looks better doing it. The glue drips don't stick to it, paint spatter is easily wiped off. (or scraped off if it dries)
 
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