First, sorry to not responding sooner, but I've been even busier than I usually am
As for bolts or nails, and the schedule, for what it's worth I used what the engineer speced out on my triple LVL main beams. He called for 16d nails, in rows of two's (one near the top, the other near the bottom)...and on 24" centers.
Being who I am, and how I like to overdo things, I used 16d nails, but I put them on 16" centers, and drove a staggered course in from the other side so I had them nailed from each side. Twice the nails, but cheap insurance from where I was pounding!
A few fine points...
Regardless of the fastener, as others have already mentioned, PT lumber will completely dissolve relgular fasteners in less than a year. Whatever you chose MUST be galvanized...(or stainless if you're feeling rich!)
If you decide on bolts, do a careful layout of the boards, noting where other boards (joists) will be joinng your rims. Do what you can to lay out your bolts so that they won't interfere with your joist hangers (or toenailing). (Same thing with your plates and whatever anchor bolts you chose to use.)
If you decide to use nails, which is what I'd do, you may want to SERIOUSLY consider getting your hands on a pnuematic framing nailer! Driving 16d nails into PT lumber is NOT EASY!!!
I just took a quick look on ebay and you can get your hands on a used Paslode gun for under $100. That gun will be your friend for the remainder of your framing work as well. And if you don't, (or can't) get an air nailer, think about a good heavy Estwing (or similar) hammer. 28-30 ounces of steel helps build momentum to drive those long nails home!
Oh, and one final thing about nails...if you chose to use nails, consider ring shanks. They hold WAY better, especially in PT lumber. The additional cost is nothing when you consider the adding holding power.
Just a few things to think about...good luck...
- Marty -
When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there’s no end to what you can’t do…