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Thread: anybody have experience with a Terrco carver?

  1. #1
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    anybody have experience with a Terrco carver?

    I am having a monster of a time doing anything with my Terrco Dupli Carver. Shown below is an over-all image of the machine and a close up of my first attempt to duplicate a gunstock. As recommended, I am using a 1/2" flat router bit for the rough shaping at full RPM (apx 27 to 30,000). Problem is the unit is balanced to make the router, essentially, weightless and free-floating. As soon as the cutter touches wood it grabs and jumps. The instructions say to hold the stylus (white thing on far side over the dark master stock) in the fingers like a pencil and guide gently. The words I'm tempted use in response to that would get me banned from FW. Can I say 'horse feathers' ? I'm considering buying some carbide burrs like wood carvers use. But those represent about a $30.00 investment per. I already have about $3,000.00 invested in this medieval tech device. If they will work, it will be justified but I don't want to spend just to experiment. I need help.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  2. #2
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    Hmmmm... Not pretty. I know *nothing* about such things, as you know... but the machine can't actually cut what it shouldn't cut, right? Maybe you're supposed to get the blank very close to actual size? And is it possible to hold the router section, instead of the stylus, while you're roughing?

    Just a thought,

    Thanks,

    Bill

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Lantry View Post
    Hmmmm... Not pretty. I know *nothing* about such things, as you know... but the machine can't actually cut what it shouldn't cut, right? Maybe you're supposed to get the blank very close to actual size? And is it possible to hold the router section, instead of the stylus, while you're roughing?

    Just a thought,

    Thanks,

    Bill
    Bill, I tried that. But the grab and jump does so with a lot of force and it was jerked out of my hand. Having my hands near that spinning cutter could be disastrous. There is a plastic spring loaded guard for the cutter but it is supposed to be held back with the left hand while using the right to guide the stylus. Altogether, not a brilliant concept, IMHO. These machines have been on the market many years so somebody must actually use them.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Clardy View Post
    Frank.

    Not up to speed on that machine, but a question.

    How many wings on your cutter? One? two?

    Usually flat bottom cutters have two wings.

    Two..
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  5. #5
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    Frank I read your post and looked at your pictures...

    Only a couple of things I can think of...
    1. Would be to make your blank as close in size as possible to the pattern before mounting in the machine as Bill suggested?
    2. Watch the direction your feeding the router bit into the wood. IE; you say it grabs and jumps... Maybe try approaching the blank from the opposite direction that the router bit is spinning? For example if the bit spins clockwise try feeding the router into the wood gently from the left to right or vice versa.

    Good luck.
    --------------
    Cheers! - Jim

  6. #6
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    i agree it looks like you tried to climb cut your stock! that not a good way to start. i have never seen your tool but if they have been around for so long then you should be able to get a manaul or a vidieo or some tech help on the phone... you wernt the first one to use one of those so check out the web. jist some observations..
    If in Doubt, Build it Stout!
    One hand washes the other!
    Don't put off today till tomorrow!

  7. #7
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    Some additional thoughts I just had Frank...

    Maybe you could index the depth of the stylus by marking it somehow etc. (where ever the finished depth is) and then wind it down quite a few turns (counting so you know how many to go back) so you're just starting to cut the wood on the blank... then sneak up on the final size by lowering the router, raising the stylus a few turns at a time.

    You could do this on all four sides or however many planes or turns you're going to use to carve out the gun stock. In the pics it looks like the pattern and the stock are attached to round plastic indexing plates.

    Hope this makes sense...
    --------------
    Cheers! - Jim

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Bergstrom View Post
    Frank I read your post and looked at your pictures...

    Only a couple of things I can think of...
    1. Would be to make your blank as close in size as possible to the pattern before mounting in the machine as Bill suggested?
    2. Watch the direction your feeding the router bit into the wood. IE; you say it grabs and jumps... Maybe try approaching the blank from the opposite direction that the router bit is spinning? For example if the bit spins clockwise try feeding the router into the wood gently from the left to right or vice versa.

    Good luck.
    Couple problems there. The blank is the thickness that it is. I suppose I could plane down but that is more time and machine usage. I traced about 1/8" oversize on the outline before bandsawing figuring I couldn't put it back if I cut undersize. The Terrco instructions say to go with the grain on the spin direction. Go figger. Still grabs and jumps.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    i agree it looks like you tried to climb cut your stock! that not a good way to start. i have never seen your tool but if they have been around for so long then you should be able to get a manaul or a vidieo or some tech help on the phone... you wernt the first one to use one of those so check out the web. jist some observations..
    You're right about it being around a long time. The three other people I know of that have owned these said they never used them much. I have to wonder why. I'll be calling Monday.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Bergstrom View Post
    Some additional thoughts I just had Frank...

    Maybe you could index the depth of the stylus by marking it somehow etc. (where ever the finished depth is) and then wind it down quite a few turns (counting so you know how many to go back) so you're just starting to cut the wood on the blank... then sneak up on the final size by lowering the router, raising the stylus a few turns at a time.

    You could do this on all four sides or however many planes or turns you're going to use to carve out the gun stock. In the pics it looks like the pattern and the stock are attached to round plastic indexing plates.

    Hope this makes sense...
    What you say makes sense. The stylus can be adjusted. I may have to do that. But sneaking up on the wood a tiny bit at a time will make for real slow going. Might be my only option. I have some rotary rasps and will try one of those tomorrow. If they work I will have learned something. They would be short lived much work but would tell me that I should get the carbide burrs.
    "Folks is funny critters."

    Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~Voltaire

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