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Thread: My own bandsaw question.

  1. #1
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    Cool My own bandsaw question.

    Well, I ran out of wood to use this weekend on the multistation benches. Bob brought me the levellers, so I got them on. What to do next? So I tuned up the TS and used my dial guage and magnetic base for the first time, (The one I used the winning gift certificate for from one of the SMC drawings) Arbor less than 1/1000th variation. Not bad for Ridgid! Blade is about 3 to 4 thou out. Oh well.
    Oh yeah, band saw. So I finish the TS and say what's next? Then I hear the MM E16 yelling "ME!!! ME!!! IT'S MY TURN, DONT YA THINK???" So I do my best to remember what Sam told me on the phone, what, a year ago?? Turn each top and bottom screw 3 turns....Just kidding Sam! actually ended up going 1/4 turn, lock things back down and install the 1/4" blade. Tracks great!! Adjust the top wheel with a few problems getting the hang of things, then go to the guide bearings. No problem on the side bearings top and bottom, bottom thrust bearing easy to adjust. Top thrust bearing...HUH??? hits the guide bar and is still about 3/8" or so from the back of the blade. Attachment 10094 Is this the same problem people have discussed on SMC on the MM16? I'm guessing I need to mark this, take it apart and cut out the area so that the bearing will move forward? Just want to make sure before I go whacking into this bandsaw. I know it's 2 years old, but it's never been used, not even by a little old lady on Sundays!! Any help you can give will be muchly appreciated. Jim.
    Last edited by Jim O'Dell; 06-24-2007 at 09:27 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Thanks Steve. Glad to hear that. Especially since I went ahead and cut it before I saw your post!! Attachment 10100
    So I decided to make a couple cuts. My ducting had fallen off the BS, so I stuck it back on, but it needs some silicone again, to make these 2 cuts. Tried to open the bottom door with the cyclone running. Man, any dust that gets to the pick up area won't have a chance to get to the lower wheel housing!!! Made these cuts with the 1/4" blade, probably not tensioned enough. Attachment 10099Not bad!!! I think it's a keeper.
    Did have a little episode of frustration when I pushed the button to start the saw....nothing. Now I have run it before, and it started everytime. I'm thinking, now I've got the door switch problem too? Finally dawned on me that I might have had the breaker off when the roof tried to leak a couple weeks ago. (Hasn't done it again since, and we've had rain) Sure enough, breaker off. Fired right up. I'm stopping early today. It's been a very good day! Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...
    Exclusively Irish!
    Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas
    When Irish Eyes are smiling, they're usually up to something!!
    At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...but most likely, I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, season 3


  3. #3
    Hi Jim. I don't think you should have to cut the housing. My MM16 2003 model has an ell bracket that goes from the blade cover to the the back of the guide lift rod.

    Attachment 10101

    That bracket fixes the cover about 3/4" above the thrust bearing. There is no way the two can interfere with each other. I would call MM tomorrow and find out what is going on. While your fix does work, it just ain't right. If I read your picture correctly, you will have difficulty adjusting the bearing to the blade.

  4. #4
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    Ken, your's looks like the picture that Pete Bradley posted to my note on SMC. He got the picture off the MM website. I seem to remember some having to make this adjustment on their MM16s. Maybe it is the new ones like Steve has. Obviously a change was made in how they made these pieces for the saws. Either they missed the cut and didn't catch it, or just totally messed up on designing the thing, I don't know. But my modification works well, doesn't affect the integrity of the piece, or it's ability to do it's job safely. My bet is this is what MM would say to do. Thanks for the note!! Jim.

    ps. You know, going back and looking at my before picture, you can see that it was cut out at the factory, they just didn't go far enough forward for a small blade. I remember it working fine with the 3/4" blade when I had it on once upon a time. So it's just a problem they didn't forsee with a small blade.
    Last edited by Jim O'Dell; 06-25-2007 at 12:48 AM. Reason: added ps
    Coolmeadow Setters...
    Exclusively Irish!
    Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas
    When Irish Eyes are smiling, they're usually up to something!!
    At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...but most likely, I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, season 3


  5. #5
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    You know, that voids your warranty now.

    Yep, that mod will work. This is what I do for 1/4" blades:

    http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n...uide%20blocks/

    This way I never have to move my guides, they just act like a vice for the small blade block. Simple, silly, very effective.
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  6. #6
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    Thanks Sam. Warranty, what warranty? You mean these things came with a warranty?
    That is a neat idea for "cool blocks". But your picture shows the same set up that Ken shows. The u-channel that mine has comes down infront of the thrust bearing. I guess I could have cut a piece of the phenolic in a cube that fit up in the channel, and cut the kerf in the front edge for the back of the blade to ride in and held in place with the thrust bearing, like you did. Probably would have worked very well. Actually, I could still do that, and might, if I need to run a smaller blade than 1/4". Thanks for the pictures!! Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...
    Exclusively Irish!
    Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas
    When Irish Eyes are smiling, they're usually up to something!!
    At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...but most likely, I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, season 3


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Blasco View Post
    You know, that voids your warranty now.

    Yep, that mod will work. This is what I do for 1/4" blades:

    http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n...uide%20blocks/

    This way I never have to move my guides, they just act like a vice for the small blade block. Simple, silly, very effective.
    Admittedly I don't know much about this.... but doesn't the friction from the blade melt the plastic blocks?
    We create with our hands in wood what our mind sees in thought.
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  8. #8
    Yep Jim. I got my picture at the MM site also. It looks like my saw....
    Regardless of the picture I still think that there is something missing on your saw. The MM people are to smart to market something that doesn't work without the customer getting out the hacksaw.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Wright View Post
    Admittedly I don't know much about this.... but doesn't the friction from the blade melt the plastic blocks?
    (Not Sam, But....),
    Sean, if he were using PLASTIC, it probably would melt from the heat, BUT, Sam is using Phenolic, and that material will last a long time in this application, and for sure, Won't Melt.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Ken, but I don't think anything is missing, just different. I'm sure Sam will scope one out and let me know if it is wrong. But I think it's a different design. Remember mine is the E16, not the regular MM16. I do appreciate the concern, and I will check into it. Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...
    Exclusively Irish!
    Home of Irish Setter Rescue of North Texas
    When Irish Eyes are smiling, they're usually up to something!!
    At a minimum, I'm Pentatoxic...but most likely, I'm a Pentaholic. There seems to be no known cure. Pentatonix, winners of The Sing Off, season 3


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