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Thread: Wood Thickness

  1. #1
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    Wood Thickness

    My next "real" project is the Cherry & Fir Bookcase from Jan/Feb 2003 FWW:

    http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki.../011161060.pdf

    If you don't have access to the article, it's basically a frame and panel bookcase. Hopefully, my questions make sense without actually seeing the article.

    I'd like to stay as true as possible to the dimensions outlined in the plan/article. I have a ton of 4/4 cherry that I'd like to use for this project. The thing is, a lot of the dimensions have finished thicknesses of 1 1/4" and above. Now, I don't have an issue laminating stock together to get the desired thickness for the posts and rails because they are only 2 3/4" wide. What I'm wondering is, the top and shelves are thicker than the stock I have and are obviously wider than the posts and rails. Top is ~18" and the shelves are ~12" wide. Should I just break down and buy some thicker stock? Or, should I attempt to face-laminate (is that the right term?) two boards to get my final thickness?

    I'd like to use the stock I have but I want to make sure I'm not breaking any rules.

  2. #2
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    rob, by laminating you`ll counteract some of the warpage that will be encountered using wide/thick wood......only problem being asthetics...can you hide a gluejoint using the design you`ve chosen?
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  3. #3
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    I don't have the article, but if you can put edging on the shelves and top, you should be able to hide the glue joint. If the sides are laminated, maybe a face frame.

    This probably wouldn't work, but I have run a small piece of inlay over a lam joint. Looked like I did it by design .

    Like Tod said, structurally, its sound, just looks....
    Don't believe everything you think!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Cloud View Post
    ...but if you can put edging on the shelves and top, you should be able to hide the glue joint....
    Someone else just suggested the same thing on another forum so I post the same response here:

    Thought about that. It would be fine for the shelves. I think it would be more difficult for the top because I would need to miter the corners to avoid seeing a glue line. Could get messy because of the cove. (Jesse, I know you didn't see the article but the top has a cove detail all the way around) Not saying it couldn't be done but I am a beginner and I'm trying to keep things simple for this project.

    I may try to do the face lamination to see if the glue line is close to invisible. If I don't like the looks of it, off to the sawmill.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Hey Rob,
    I think you hit the nail on the head - keep it simple. The cove throws a monkey wrench in the works. Even if the glue line looks fine on the edge, once you start digging in, you might find some voids.

    So, here's free advice version 2.0. Get some thicker cherry for the edge of the top. Cut the cove in that, then the rest of the top can be laminated 4/4 pieces.
    Its simple and it uses your 4/4. Only issue is how wide the cove piece needs to be. You might lam some 4/4 and test it on your cove making process (maybe you will get lucky ) and measure how deep the cove goes. Add a half inch or so and thats the width of your thicker cherry.

    For safety, I would cut the cove on a thick piece and slice off what you need, rather than running small pieces thru a router setup or a tablesaw....

    Don't forget to post some pics!!!
    Don't believe everything you think!

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