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Thread: Square Body Propane Gas Forge

  1. #1
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    Square Body Propane Gas Forge

    Forging ahead with the new square body forge....

    I got the Isolite bricks................

    Attachment 10308
    That is 7 bricks, they cost about 680 yen each, so about $5.50 each, and the ceramic tile things ($1 each) are for covering the bottom of the forge, as they are easily replaceable and should wear better than the super soft Isolite bricks.

    Thus, I'm into the forge for around $40 (not counting the other stuff I already have from the other forge I built,the gas regulator, the popane tank etc).

    Attachment 10309
    This is the basic idea, with a back piece too.
    I'm going to cut the bricks a bit,to make better, tighter joints, and then I'll wrap the whole thing in fairly thin plate metal to make it durable and somewhat portable.

    Attachment 10310
    To cut the blocks, I just use a hacksaw, works well, but you DO wear the blades out. Took two blades, could have taken three really, as the last cuts I was wishing for a new blade! (I only had two hacksaw blades ).

    Attachment 10311
    This is what a cut brick looks like.

    Attachment 10312
    The bottom two bricks cut.....

    Attachment 10313
    The sides in place.........

    Attachment 10314
    ........with the shelf tiles in place.

    Attachment 10315
    OK, the bottom, side and top are done!

    On to the back, this took a bit of noodling and some cutting, but I like the way it turned out, I don't think I'll have much trouble with it.......

    Attachment 10316
    Taken apart to give you an idea of the joint.....

    Attachment 10317
    last one, need to start anohter post!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  2. #2
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    OK, here is the back all in place.........

    Attachment 10318

    now for some shots of the "Size" of the forge.......

    Attachment 10319 Attachment 10320 Attachment 10321
    It is not that big, about a 22cm x 23 cm x 23 cm cube, or just under a 10" cube.

    The actual forge size is..........

    Attachment 10323 Attachment 10324 Attachment 10322
    that is 9cm x 8cm x 16.5cm deep, or just around 1200 cc, or 1 1/4 pints.

    Well that is it so far, I need to get some steel to cover it, and weld that up, then I need to work on my propane burner.

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  3. #3
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    Looking COOL Stu. I might have to try my hand at making my own forge, if yours works out. Please keep us updated on your progress.

  4. #4
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    Thanks Joe!

    Tons of "GOOD" info availible online, like this guy.........

    www.zoellerforge.com

    Here is another one, a Step by Step to building a Propane Gas Burner

    Yet another one......
    How to make a Propane Forge

    Like I said, lots of good info out there!

    Cheers!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  5. #5
    Alan DuBoff is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Stu,

    That's looking good. Brick forges are one of the most flexible of all,

    I was playing around with my forge yesterday, got a stand and getting it tuned properly...yellow, I think that's pretty hot...

    (here's another one for you Joe, how I built one!;-)



    Stu,

    Are you going to totally enclose it in steel? Or just make a frame around the edges to hold them together? I was just curious how you were planning to mount the burner and/or wether it was going to enter through the top (angled) or in the side. It's looking good, that's gonna be one nice forge.

    I was trying to forge some brass this past week, to try and hand forge a saw back to make a handsaw out of...it didn't go quite as stellar as I would have liked and I got frustrated. I'm going to try the slotting method by using a small mini-mill (you can barely see it in the background on the floor, upper right of photo).

    I tried to keep the forge down at around 1300 degrees, a friend of mine helped me measure it, but we weren't too successful, it was a bit fugly...
    Last edited by Alan DuBoff; 07-02-2007 at 05:02 PM.

  6. #6
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    Stu,

    that is one seriously cool little forge. So cool, I searched ebay for isolite brick... with no success

    Not that I have the time to make one, given what's happened, but still... very cool...

    Thanks,

    Bill

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys!

    I was looking at it tonight, and I think I'd like to modify the design to allow me to open the back of it if I want to heat up something longer, so what I plan on doing is to make a tube of fairly thin plate, something near 1/16" that goes around the bricks, top, bottom and both sides. I think this would also have the advantage of being able to open it up to exchange bricks if one got badly damaged somehow.

    I saw this online.......

    Attachment 10328 Attachment 10329

    not exactly like this, but something that would pull straight out from the back, leaving the rear of the forge open.

    I'm thinking that if the front and rear panels were even bolted in place it would be fine, I'd not be opening it up when it is hot, but then again, maybe that kind of function would be nice to have....?

    I've got to find some high heat glue that will bond the Isolite bricks to metal.......

    I know I had some stuff for motorcycles that was a stick of putty looking stuff, you cut off a section and kneaded it together, then stuck it on, in 5 or 10 minutes, it was like steel, you could even drill and tap it, and it was supposed to be high heat...........?

    I'll have to look around.

    Needs some more noodling for sure
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  8. #8
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    Oh yeah, Bill, you can get these bricks at most pottery places, they use them to line their kilns.

    If I were you, in the US, I'd just order some of the Duroblanket stuff (or whatever it's called) I could not source it here.

    I'd then build a round forge!
    The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.
    William Arthur Ward

  9. #9
    Alan DuBoff is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Stu,

    I think the brick forge is a good idea. I think I would go for a clamshell style forge next, using brick as the floor with a clamshell over the top. That allows you to be able to lift it, place the work underneath, and put the clamshell back in place, using bricks to cover the exposed areas around the clamshell...kinda hard to explain.

    Those bricks would be fine without the metal.

    Here's one that uses metal for the top, but the bottom is all brick.


  10. #10
    Alan DuBoff is offline Former Member (by the member's request)
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    Stu,

    I ran across this forge on yahoogroups.

    Phil Roybal's Forge

    That's the same burner I have on my forge, they seem pretty popular.
    Last edited by Alan DuBoff; 07-03-2007 at 10:22 AM.

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