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Thread: Choice of Coping Sled for Router?

  1. #1
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    Choice of Coping Sled for Router?

    I want to start cutting Cope & Stick joints for small cabinet doors on my router table.

    My training for this was on a shaper table. But I want to use the router table I have. Who makes a good coping sled? What would you suggest as a minimum for router horsepower? (these will be cabinet doors)

    Gary Curtis

  2. #2
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    If you have some scrap 1/4" plywood and a scrap piece of 3/4" wood and a toggle clamp you can make one really easy and for little cost. Below is one that I threw together and it works fine for me. You will not need much horsepower to do what you want to do. It would be a guess for me as I have the big Milwaukee 5625 in my table but I would say that any router around 2 hp would be more than enough. I would think that 1 3/4 hp would be enough.



    If you want to really spend some bucks take a look at this. I have not seen it in person but I have not been dissapointed in anything that I have bought from Infinity. It must be first class. http://www.infinitytools.com/prodinf...mber=COP%2D100

    MLCS has some pretty good stuff also. I cannot vouch for their sleds but you might want to take a look here. I would not hesitate to buy one from them as I have had good luck with their Katana bits. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ssorysafe.html
    Last edited by Allen Bookout; 07-12-2007 at 05:13 AM.

  3. #3
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    Here's another shop made idea. I have a miter bar and use the slot on the RT but some folks just use the fence as a guide. Personal preference:

    Attachment 10619

    I run a 15amp Milwaukee 5625 (called 3 1/2HP in router-speak). Extremely happy with it.
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic.
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  4. #4
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    Hi Guys.

    Sorry for jumping in, but my woodworking english vocabulary is rather short, and sometimes I have problems trying to understand what is being said.

    Although I think I have an idea of what sort of joint are you talking about from Glenn's picture, I'd like someone to enlighten me, any contribution will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance
    Best regards,
    Toni

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________
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    I also dream of a shop with north light where my hands can be busy, my soul rest and my mind wander...

  5. #5
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    toni, a "cope-n-stick" joint is used to assemble cabinet doors, or any type of frame and panel construction. the "cope" cut is the counter profile to the profile ran on the long sticks and is cut into the endgrain so as to resemble a miter while offering the strength of a stub-tennon. tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  6. #6
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    Many thanks Tod!!

    As usual you are a well of knowledge, thanks for sharing it.

    Best regards,
    Toni

    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _________________
    web site:http://www.toniciuraneta.com
    I also dream of a shop with north light where my hands can be busy, my soul rest and my mind wander...

  7. #7
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    Choice of Coping Sled

    Allen, the sled I was looking at is, in fact, the Infinity. I was thrown off a bit because their's rides along the fence instead of being guided by a miter slot. I'm over-tasked right now putting an entire new shop into order so I'll buy instead of build. And with the Infinity, I save the trouble of having to install a miter slot into my router table.

    The router I intend to use is a Milwaukee 5616 (2 1/2 hp). I learned to make doors using a shaper. It had 7hp. While checking up on this stuff I telephoned Pat Warner (of router book fame). He said he wouldn't make a coping cut using a router. It beats the hell out of the machine. But with very small, incremental cuts, it is ok, and lots of people do it, according to Pat.

    Tony, it is easiest to understand a Cope if you look at a frame and panel door. The sides (vertical) are the Stiles, and these are given a Stick edge with a router or shaper. Then, to join the Rails, you make a Cope on the 2 ends. The Cope is like a "hand in glove" fit to the profile of the stick. It really serves as a stub tenon joint to the Stick or Stile. Very pretty to look at. Not quite as strong as a real Mortise & Tenon, but fine for doors in cabinets.

    The challenge is cutting across that end grain on the Cope. It is hard on the machinery, the cutter. And somewhat dangerous as well.

    Gary

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gary curtis View Post
    Allen, the sled I was looking at is, in fact, the Infinity. I was thrown off a bit because their's rides along the fence instead of being guided by a miter slot. I'm over-tasked right now putting an entire new shop into order so I'll buy instead of build. And with the Infinity, I save the trouble of having to install a miter slot into my router table.


    Gary
    I am very confident that the Infinity will be first class quality.

  9. #9
    Woodhaven makes a nice coping sled, 3 sizes available, very heavy duty...

    However, depending on how much you'll use it, it's very easy to make your own, someone already showed a good example, about $5 and some scraps, you can make your own...

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Coping Sled

    All my saw table-top router stuff is WoodHaven. I'm narrowing it down to about 3 choices, and WoodHaven is one of them.

    Gary

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